Baja California, December '10, Colin's random images

Zoetry, Casa Del Mar, Los Cabos

This seaside resort features a dining area on the beach.

They set the tables around a firepit. Excellent service

including blankets to wrap up in if you get cold.

After 5 nights of tortillas, tamales and salsas it was nice to

find a simple roasted chicken over sweet corn and poblanos.

The key to this dish was it's rich, dark chicken sauce.

I also like the fact that the chef chose not to add starch to

the plate beyond roasted corn kernals. Another nice touch,

grilled portabello mushrooms.

They served the breast with a pin bone in, seared then finished

in the oven, the leg was on the bone, something we will remove

at the Little Kitchen. It'll be easier for the guest to eat without.

My daughter was quick to remind me, she prefers chicken off

the bone. Instead of a grilled mushroom top, we'll stuff the leg

with a combination of "cambry onions" (scallions) and diced

mushrooms.

For the sauce we'll start with roasted chicken bones, mirpoix and

a few tablespoons of tomato paste. Simmer in chicken stock for

an hour then strain, add red wine and reduce for another hour over

medium flame. season with salt, pepper and herbs and then

refrigerate over night. Before service skim the fat and reduce until

it's thick enough to hold the back of a spoon.

The roasted corn should be added to a few tablespoons of chopped

scallions softened in butter and a few tablespoons of diced poblano

peppers. Then, when the chicken is removed from the oven, plate

the corn/ pepper mix first, top with a piece of breast meat and a

stuffed leg, then finish the chicken with sauce.

El Fagon, Taqueria

San Jose is the first village south of Cabo San Lucas near the Sea of Cortez. The centro, or town center is full of restaurants that share a Mexican flavor and silver shops, ice cream parlors, gift shops the like. Very colorful, sprinkled with tradition.

We found what we were looking for a few blocks

away, near the "freeway" in a Taqueria call El Fagon.

The menu is posted on a large wall opposite the open

kitchen. As you sit down a server approaches the table

with a traditional plate filled with salsas and a smooth

buttery guacamole. We discussed the papas de arrachera,

she expained(through our guide Rilando) that they were

baked potatoes filled with braised beef, carrots, onions

and cheese. The wall also offered Papas de cameron, and

adobada (shrimp and pork) so we tried one of each.

The potatoes are a perfect addition to my menu @ Estia's

Little Kitchen because they feature ingredients that are already

in our pantry. At El Fagon, the pre baked potatoes are sliced

in half, topped with about 2 tablespoons of butter then stuffed

with a combination of protien and vegetables. In the shrimp

potato they used carrots, onions and mushrooms, followed

by a heavy portion of white (jack?) cheese. The pork was a bit more

flavor packed with jalepeno pepper, onions, mint and pinapple,

again set up with lots of butter and cheese. The beef version,

diced bits of braised flank steak with onions and carrot, butter

and cheese. Fianlly each potaoto was wrapped tightly in foil leaving

the cheesy top exposed and finished in the oven for a few minutes.

This is a quick pick up for the kitchen because all of the ingredients

are pre cooked and stuffed in the potato warm, just needing time for

the cheese to melt.

For the Little Kitchen menu, I'm envisioning a lighter version.

We will try removing 1/2 of the potato and adding the pre baked product

to our home fries. Then, with a lighter baked potato shell we'll add

fillings that are brought together in a saute pan to order, each including

a spicier version with cilantro, mint, garlic and pepper. Then to top it

off we'll add a dusting of queso fresco or feta cheese. The potato will

go under the broiler for a minute then into a bowl on top of a small salad

of greens and our Mexican cole slaw which is prepared in advance with

lots of red onoin, tomato, cilantro, pepper, olive oil and lime juice.

I think we'll call it the El Fagon Papas salad. A special that will offer a

different protien stuffing on different days.

La Frida, Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach

Pueblo Bonito, Sunset Beach is a primier resort

and La Frida, it's top dining room offers Cabo's

primier table. Every detail is exquisit, the rolling

tableside bar service is unique and full service.

When we asked for lemonade he prepared a perfect

glass with fresh lemon juice, simple syrup and

sparkling water.

The amuse was amazing. A chicken mole seved in

a twisted spoon, one bite packed with flavor and

a chicken breast shard that melted in the mouth.

For starters we enjoyed a tortilla soup with a nest

of corn totilla strips like I've never seen. The black

bean soup, perfectly seasoned was satisfying and full

flavored. We also shared a beet salad with garden

fresh greens and catija cheese, on the plate a roasted

beet puree that doubled as another layer of the fine

sherry vinaigrette.

My youngest daughter chose the New York steak

which came centered on a tamale, removed

from it's husk and crisped on its edges. The plate was

garnished with carmelized ripe plantains and finished

with a rich, red wine natural. Finally topping the

perfectly cooked USDA prime steak a braised

shallot and grilled fennel.

The 2 older girls enjoyed the chefs paella, its rice

came in a cast iron "Staub" pot, including octopus

with peas and carrots. Separate on a side plate they

enjoyed shrimp, chicken and chorizo. An interesting

approach for a dish that sometimes gets overwhelmed

with ingredients.

Finally dessert choices included tres leche cake, molten

chocolate cake and choroz with chocolate ice cream. All

perfectly balance and portioned so not a bite was left behind.

We found the service, food and decor at La Frida to exceed

every expecation. Just as the Sunset Beach resorts' grounds

and staff have done during our 4 night stay.

Fish Tacos, Tequila Sunrise Restaurant, Todos Santos

Yellow tail, grilled and served over corn tortillas.

That's how Manuel started to discribe his fish taco

presentation at "Teqila Sunrise". He had me there,

then he went on to discribe the garlic and herb

marmalade that makes these tacos so perfect.

Manuel is the owner of the Tequila Sunrise restaurant

in Todos Santos, on Baja Sur Mexico. The son of an

Italian father and Mexican mother he has arranged

his local/organic offerings to represent both traditions.

In the case of this fish taco, he grills the fish simply on

a flat top before transfering it to plated, warm corn tortillas.

What makes it special is what I call a garlic marmalade.

Surprised at how mild the garlic was I asked him if it was

a special variety and he explained the trick. The garlic

is diced and combined with diced chili (poblano pepper)

red pepper, basil, oregano and parsley all organic and

purchased from his freinds in Todos Santos.

Once all of the ingredients are combined they're covered

with olive oil and stored in a cool/dark room for 30 days.

Then, when orders come in the chef strains the "marmalade"

at room temp and spreads it over the fish.

Another item that enhances his plates is a flavorful organic

brown rice. He follows an Italian technique that involves

mixing dry rice with balsamic and olive oil in advance of the

cooking process. When the rice is cooked, they begin with

an aromatic blend of finely diced carrot, onion and zucchini

in the pan over medium heat until soft then the rice is added

follwed by twice as much chicken stock.

Tequila Sunrise, Todos Santos, Baja Sur

Ok, we loved Cabo then came Todos Santos.

Layed back, quiet, friendly another reason to

book our next trip to Baja ASAP.

"Tequila Sunrise" on the main drag in Todos Santos

came highly recommended and today we found out

why. Not only did the owner Manuel handle our table,

he let my kids write thier names on the walls (only

requiring a promise to return).

I loved the way they did the thier "Arnold Palmer",

an ice filled 16oz pilsner glass filled 1/2 way with

black tea and topped with a lemonade smoothie

(blended lemonade, mint and ice) like a floater.

They also had an amazing "Queso Fondido" a

combination of Jack, cheddar, mozarella and provole

cheeses in a bowl, hot and stringy topped with chorizo.

The Tequila Sunrise version is served with grilled

flour tortillas, combined with a little guacamole and

salsa a hungry traveler would need little else.

La Fonda, Cabo San Lucas

'This little place is made with a lot of heart...

a real Mexican kitchen." That's what it says on

top of the menu and it's true.

Outstanding "Mole de la Casa" for anyone

who wonders how it should be served in the

authentic approach. They offer it with chicken

or pork. We chose chicken, a succulent breast

off the bone smothered with a black, very

complex sauce, dusted with sesame seeds.

Another choice featured perfectly braised

pork in a "Pipan Verde Mole", a heady pumpkin

seed enhanced sauce.

We learned an important rule as it relates to

dining at La Fonda. Choose either a variety

of starters to share (empanaditas, queso fondido,

tostadas & tacos) or the substantial entrees, we

did both and it was overwhelming. The main plates

are huge.

Everything is fresh and made with care. Service is

spot on and the father and son who stroll from

table to table singing with guitar in hand make

La Fonda spledid.

This is a nieghborhood restaurant that sets a

high bar, the menu is huge and needs to be navigated

carefully.

Chile Rellanos

On my first evening in Cabo San Lucas I enjoyed a

splendid chile rellanos at Mi Casa, under a thatched

roof on a hand painted table in a room full of celebration.

It was Christmas Eve.

The dish was pleasing to me, it featured one perfectly

presented, delicious poblano chile filled with pork and

beef. I was amazed at how the pepper retained its firm

texture and yet was peeled of all its skin and cleaned

of every seed. To finish the dish the chef poured

a sweet corn cream sauce over the stuffed pepper

and garnished it with a scatter of pomegranate seeds.

When returning to my kitchen in Sag Harbor I intend

to recreate this dish following the Mi Casa theme, I find

the idea of a pepper roasted not fried very appealing.

4 poblano peppers, charred over open flame then finished

in a steel bowl, cover w/ platic wrap and set aside.

Seed and peel carefully when cool.

1/2 pound pulled pork. From a shank braised in chicken

stock w/ onions and chiles until soft.

1/2 pound ground beef, browned with 1 small finely diced

onion until cooked through. Then stir in 2 tablespoons

of tomato paste

Remove any excess fat from beef, combine with pork and

season with 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon

ground cumin, salt and black pepper to taste.

Allow the mixture to cool and stuff peppers in advance.

Cover with plastic and hold cold until service.

For sauce, roast 3 ears of sweet corn @ 350 for 30 min.

then remove the kernals from the cobs. Make stock

by simmering the cobs in 2 cups chicken stock w/ 1 jalepeno,

1 cup of softened mirpoix (dice celery, onion and carrot saute

in butter) & 1 teaspoon salt for 30 minutes. Strain and cool.

For service, place the stuffed peppers in a roasting pan and

warm in a pre heated 350 oven until 120 in the center. Add

1/2 cup of corn stock to the pan to keep the peppers hydrated.

Place the corn kernals in a blender with 1/2 cup of plain yogurt,

1/2 cup heavy cream, 1/2 cup corn stock, 2 tablespoons agave

necter and 2 tablespoons roasted garlic puree. Bring together

at high speed until smooth then place in a sauce pan and simmer

until warm. Add 2 tablespoons of chopped cilantro just prior to

finishing the dish.

Place one Stuffed pepper in the center of each plate and pour

warm sauce over each. Then finish by sprinkling 3 tablespoons

of pomegranate seed over each pepper.

Mi Casa, Cabo San Lucas

Christmas eve dinner @ Mi Casa was fantastic.

The bar area was quiet when we arrived @ 7:00pm.

Entering through the gift shop/ tequila emporium

is something to behold. Settling in at table we realized

that this is a serious restaurant with food and service

in mind. Every dish was spectacular, real food, handmade,

locally grown. When the band (4 pc) stopped at our table

to entertain us and the room, they stayed just long enough

to make our Mi Casa experience special.

On ordering we explained that it was our intention to

make the church on time for Christmas eve service.

The church is 1/2 a block away. Every minute for the

next hour was perfect. The soup "de Tia" (chicken stock

and vegetables) may well have been prepared by

someones favorite aunt, a splendidly simple chicken soup.

Quesadillas, borne from a comal in the corner where

someone elses aunt works all night were extraordinary.

The combinaion of handmade corn tortilla, Mexican cheese

and mild chorizo was again perfect. We also started with

a salad of local greens, corn and grilled vegetables, finished

with thinly sliced crisp corn tortillas in a pineapple, jalepeno

and celantro dressing. Our table was quiet, the children

praised every bite.

Entrees were splendind too. An achiote rubbed chicken breast

served with rice, beans and guacamole sounded routine....perfectly

turned out. The chili relleno in sweet corn cream and pomegranate

garnish, extraordinary and Jessica's tortilla soup had a touch

of spice and all the sweetness of the locally made crema.

Just as we finished the wait staff cleared, delivered strong coffee

and a check leaving pleanty of time for our family to make the

Christmas eve ceramony. As we left the crowd flowed through

the bar and out the door. All 6 of Mi Casa's diningrooms had

filled and the staff still had time to wish us well and enjoy or

holiday visit.

It was an experience my children will never forget. The flavors

of our first night in Mexico balanced by song and prayer with a

community of loving souls.