Colin's Chronicles

Sliced Steak Sandwich, Manchester farm

2012-02-12T23:19:00.000-05:00

Over the past 3 weeks my menus have offered a new take on

beef, or if you sit next to Dave Beckwith at the counter he might

suggest it's "old style beef". The source, Manchester Farms in

Avella, Pennsylvania has a strict code, raising it's animals on

a grass diet from start to finish. At this time, since Manchester

is an organic dairy farm, they raise only Hereford dairy cows.

Smaller than beef breeds, the Hereford male offspring, raised

on grass, provide a deep flavor, lean but rich and gamey, I just

love it.

Purchasing beef from Manchester Farm requires a unique ritual that

I won't go into here but most importantly it involves an education

in whole animal awareness. You must commit to 1/4 of an animal

that in this case dialed down to 96 pounds of meat. Packaged in

cryovaced plastic bag and labeled properly for each cut. The

package included one filet, 2 London broil, 7 pieces of NY strip

cut at 10oz on average, 5 Delmonico steaks, beef stew chunks,

30lbs of chop meat an assortment of roasts and a brisket.

We've had a favorable response to the prime cuts, especially

the Delcomico and enthusiastic reviews for the burger which

has been offered at 1/3 pound on 8 grain toast with what we call

our ensalada de casita.

Why introduce the Organic, Grass fed beef now, in the middle

of the off season you may ask? Simple answer, we're preparing

new menus for the next Estia location. As we searched for the next

spot to share our full service program we met new people and

Joe Pagliarulo and his wife Margie who own the Manchester Farm

came across our bow.

The new space has all of the ingredients we've been looking for

to make the Estia formula work. It's in a family community,

filled with open minded busy folks who look for fresh, clean

food to share with their friends and families. While I'm not at

liberty to introduce the location yet I can tell you that my partner

in the kitchen will be Carissa Waecter. Happy to work with Carissa

who's enthusiasm and drive make every moment of this anxious

time seem more worthwhile.

One of the many dishes we've developed to highlight the "Old Style
Beef" from Manchester Farms is our new Sliced Steak Sandwich,
it'll be served on home baked baguette topped with grilled red onions
and warm bleu cheese over arugula, the beef is so flavorful we've
found it's not necessary to pile it on.

Russian Boar: Winter specials at Estia's Little Kitchen

2011-12-14T09:54:00.001-05:00

Last Thursday started with a hard frost on Estia's garden.
The greens held up but it's not going to be long before
our cold frame is the last bed standing. Nice to know it's
full and ready to serve into January. After a quick breakfast
rush and a meeting with Carrisa Waechter covering future
plans for Estia expansion, we hopped in my Ford pick up
"Bob White" and drove to the Wells family farm in Riverhead,
NY.

Our intent, to purchase a free range, humanly slaughtered
Russian boar. The animal had lived all 4 years of
its life on 50 acres, roaming in a pen that provides inhabitants
with shelter from summer heat in a 15 acre marsh, all of the
nourishment of a 25 acre corn field and shade from a large
wooded area featuring nuts and worms, all good things that
wandering pigs might enjoy as they pass through.

Carrisa and I enjoyed the experience of acquiring a field to
table offering for Estia's customers. We also found the farmers
tour to be interesting and educational. The animal he harvested
for us dressed out at 350 pounds. My job as the butcher was
to break it down into all it's parts and store it for the winter
for lunch and dinner specials at Estia's Little Kitchen.

If you scroll back to an earlier post from the summer of 2011
you'll find my recipe for pork loin and belly "Roti". This
time around we roasted a stuffed leg, tied off and packed in salt.

The fore shank was braised in 2 cups of pork stock made from
some roasted bones. The braise also included sweet carrots from
our garden, onions, garlic and celery with a cup of red wine and a handful of herbs from the garden too (parsley and oregano). The result (after 3 hours at 325) was succulent but not fit for a meal. Instead, I cleaned the meat from the bone, diced it into thumb nail size cubes and let it rest overnight in the strained stock. In a bowl on the counter top 1 cup of red kidney beans were covered with cool water and allowed to soft over night.

The following day I cleaned the fat from the stock and brought the
beans to a simmer in another cup of water on the stove top. When the
water had been absorbed, I added the pork and stock along with 1/2
cup diced onion, 2 chopped jalapeno chilies and 1 tablespoon crushed
coriander seed. The pot of beans and pork simmered for another hour
until the beans were soft then I added a tablespoon of salt and simmered
a while longer over low heat. Finally, basmati rice (1 cup) was
rinsed and then cooked in a covered pot with 2 cups of water over
medium flame, after simmering for 20 minutes the heat was removed
and the rice rested covered until service.

To serve, place the rice and beans on the plate first then top with a
slice of herb roasted pork leg. The addition of some sauteed carrots
and fall greens will give color to you plate.

Fancy Eggs Benedict

2011-12-04T14:19:00.001-05:00

Anything with hollandaise works for me, especially when I'm cooking
at home for Mansell. This morning, she's on a soft food diet so I
decided to forget about the usual English and sliced ham arrangement.
Leftover mashed potatoes and diced ham provided a perfect
replacement. Simply mix 2 slices of ham diced fine with 2 cups of
mashed potatoes and create patties, place the patties on a buttered pan
over medium heat until they begin to brown, then flip them over and
repeat. We actually like this preparation better so It'll be on the
"Little Kitchen" Sunday brunch menu soon.

The key to a good hollandaise is to make it just prior to service, in this
case make the potato cakes first. Bring the poaching water to a boil,
then make the hollandaise by stirring 1/3 of the butter and 1/2 of the
lemon juice in a small sauce pan on boiling water (like a double boiler)
until the butter melts. Next add slightly whipped egg yolks and another
chunk of butter and continue stirring, as it starts to thicken add the
remaining lemon juice and butter and stir some more. When it begins to
thicken again set aside and poach the eggs. When the eggs are cooked
and the potato cakes plated add a dash of clementine and a dash of salt
to the sauce, warm over the boiling water stirring for 30 seconds.
Finally, pour the hollandaise over the eggs in equal parts and serve
immediately.

Serves 4

6 large eggs (poach 4, separate the yolks from 2)
4 tablespoons butter (plus a little more for the potato grill pan)
2 medium lemons
1 clementine slices for garnish and juice from the ends for the sauce
2 cups mashed potatoes
2 sliced baked deli ham (diced fine)

Baja Sur Mexican Specials for December

2011-11-30T11:29:00.001-05:00

Little Neck Clam & Sweetcorn Chowder $9.95
Shrimp & Serrano Pepper Quesadilla
on corn tortillas with onions and jack cheese $13.95
☙ ☙ ☙
Pomegranate glazed Salmon with red quinoa & quail hill greens $21.95
Herb stuffed, salt roasted Local Pork Shoulder
with sweet potato purée & brussels sprouts $20.95
Peconic Bay Scallops with homegrown spinach risotto and
roasted carrots from our garden $25.95

Saugatuck Craft Butchery Heritage Turkey Liver over sausage stuffing

2011-11-24T19:50:00.001-05:00

Wait, don't be in a hurry to throw that Turkey liver in the gaboon. This afternoon I tried a new spin on an old recipe and it rocked. The simplest pre Thanksgiving lunch for a hungry chef I could think of, it really started at the Saugatuck Craft Butchery in Westport on Tuesday.

First a lady came in asking if Ryan would butcher a heritage bird from B.N. Ranch for her. All she wanted was the breast, that's what we all heard her say. After he spent 5 minutes preparing a boneless breast for her we learned that what she actually wanted was a double turkey breast, cut so the skin held the two pieces together. With a smile he said no problem, she might want to come back in an hour to pick it up as the line was growing and it required a little extra effort. She obliged and an hour later returned, all smiles on both sides. What came of the rest of the 2 birds wasn't a problem as there were still 3 days until Thanksgiving and all birds and the parts that came with them would be sold, one way or another.

As I cleaned the giblets from the second bird prior to butchering it for the special order it got me thinking? What would be the best way to plate these fabulous, free range, natural turkey livers at The Little Kitchen? Today, at about 1:30 having an empty stomach and 5 hours to go before dinner I figured it out.

My mother used to make chicken livers as a snack on occasion. Not everyone liked them but I was always game. The recipe was quick and simple. Dust the livers with salt, pepper and flour then fry them for about 2 minutes per side in a few table spoons of bacon fat. So today I did the same with the turkey liver. OK, maybe it was a little different, I used olive oil and wondra flour, added a few pieces of chopped onion for the last minute and served it over a kitchen spoon full of Hot Italian Sausage (see previous post for recipe) stuffing, but the idea came straight form my Mom.

Craft Heritage Turkey Liver Snack for 1:

1 turkey liver
shake of wondra flour
shake of salt
crack of pepper
3 tablespoon olive oil
6 pieces chopped onion
1/2 cup Hot Italian Sausage (crispy, before it's finished for dinner)

Hot Italian Sausage Thanksgiving Stuffing inspired by Craft Butchers, Westport

2011-11-24T16:58:00.001-05:00

We're trying a "Young White Turkey" from B.N. Ranch this year. It's been flown in from Lafayette, California on request of my pal Ryan Fibiger at Saugatuck Craft Butchery in Westport Connecticut. I've been spending Tuesdays with Ryan and his business partner Paul lately, cutting meat and getting familiar with the heartbeat of a sustainable butcher shop. One of the nice things about owning a seasonal business like Estia's Little Kitchen, off season allows time to help others and learn while doing new things.

In addition to the turkey, after a busy day on Tuesday I purchased a pound of "Hot Italian Sausage".
All morning long we had customers asking for sage (pork) sausage for stuffing. Since Craft is only a month old the lesson of the day was to take turkey very seriously during Thanksgiving week and have plenty of sage sausage and turkey stock on hand. Ryan had the back up B.N. Ranch turkeys to respond to demand, not so lucky with sage sausage. As the supply slipped out the front door my attention was placed on alternatives, a 10 lb bag of freshly ground Hot Italian Sausage was my answer.

This recipe came together as a result of a dish served several years earlier at our East Hampton Thanksgiving table. When I asked my daughters if a sausage stuffing should be part of today's bird my oldest (Lyman) said "No Dad, make it with 8 grain bread in a casserole like you did a few years ago". Oh Boy, what a surprise that her memory of that dish rang so clear.

A few hours went by, after Lyman and I returned from harvesting a salad from the Little Kitchen garden and picking up a loaf of 8 grain bread. My youngest (Whittier) jumped at the opportunity to help make 2 stuffing's.

The first stuffing is a simple blend of onions, celery, carrots and home made croutons toasted with olive oil. We diced the vegetables into small pieces and softened them in a pan over medium heat for 10 minutes with a few tablespoons of butter, then added some salt and pepper and a handful of chopped parsley. The whole thing came together in a bowl, topped with 1 cup of turkey stock from the gravy pan simmering on the back burner (pre roux). Then we stuffed it into our free range turkey, placed the bird on a bed of carrots and celery stalks and added a few cup of white wine to the pan. This 10lb bird should cook for 2 hours at 400 covered with foil, then turning the temp down to 350 we give it another 30 minutes uncovered.

For the Sausage stuffing we cut the vegetables the same way and added them to a pan over medium flame, it was already active with 1/2 pound of Craft Hot Italian Sausage and a few tablespoons of olive oil. When the vegetables had been stirred several times over 10 minutes we tossed the sausage and vegetables with chopped parsley 1/2 a loaf of toasted 8 grain croutons that Whittier whipped up an hour earlier. Then the mixture went into our favorite old shallow casserole and waited to go into the oven topped with 2 cups of turkey stock 30 minutes prior to service at 350 (right when the Turkey comes out).

Recipe for 2 stuffings in one day, serves 10.

1/2 loaf of 8 grain bread cubed into 2 inch pieces
1/2 loaf of good Tuscan bread
5 celery stalks
1 large Spanish onion
4 carrots
1 bunch of parsley
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 pound Hot Italian Sausage
3 cups turkey stock
Salt to taste

Beef Stew for the L.J. boys

2011-11-19T22:29:00.001-05:00

Karen L.J. requested a recipe for Beef Stew the other day, her sons Dylan, Peter and Sammy are on their way home from school and she wants some rib stickin' food on the ready. I was on the bus and this recipe came out of my head. Not an hour later, Jessica (my lovely bride) asked if we might have a nice pre Thanksgiving party. It'll be a perfect time to take this recipe full circle.

I suggest asking the butcher for a good stew meat, it'll take some of the guess work out of the recipe. If you don't have a chance to speak with a butcher look for pot roast in the meat section then cut it into golf ball size chunks when you get into the kitchen. Then cut the onions, carrots and celery in to same size pieces. Bring a large saute pan to heat over a medium flame and add most of the bacon fat. Toss the meat in a bowl with flour and salt then add each piece to the pan one at a time, once they're all in the pan start turning them until browned all around. After about 5 minutes remove the beef to a casserole and place the vegetables in the pan with the remaining bacon fat, stir continuously for 3 minutes then add the vegetables to the casserole. Finally add the red wine, beef stock and tomato paste to the pan stirring to loosen the bits from the bottom and bring to a simmer. When the liquid is ready pour it into the casserole, stir all together and then put the top on and place in the center of the oven
(pre heated to 350).

I think the key to this recipe comes after it's cooked for 2.5 hours. Remove from the oven and let stand until it begins to cool them place it in the fridge for 24 hours. When service time draws near remove the casserole from the fridge and allow to come to room temp for an or 2 then place it in the oven for an hour at 350 to heat through. You don't have to do this but my favorite cookbook author Richard Olney swears by the method and I do too.

Serve with mashed potatoes on a cold fall evening.

Serves 6

2 lb beef stew meat
1 large Spanish onion
5 carrots
3 celery stalks
8 garlic cloves
1/2 bottle red wine
16oz beef broth
4oz tomato paste
salt & pepper
3 bay leaves

Raul's Chorizo Albondigon

2011-11-19T21:49:00.001-05:00

This is a part 2 post, intended to illustrate the versatility of a good salsa verde. Raul has out done himself with another superb Albondiagas, the last time we ran one they were mini chicken meatballs in a chicken broth. This one is the opposite but then the same. A long cylindrical sausage wrapped in meatloaf then foil and roasted for an hour. Slice and serve with rice and beans, today the special platter include scrambled eggs and corn tortillas for breakfast. The lunch presentation featured a similar plate enhanced by a small radish salad harvested an hour before at the Quail Hill farm.

For the meat loaf combine ground beef and panko in a bowl with diced red peppers, onion and cilantro in a bowl with an egg, season with salt and black pepper then roll it around a link or 2 of chorizo (depending on how long they are). Wrap the cylinder in foil and place on a baking sheet in the oven pre heated to 375. Cook for an hour. Serve over salsa verde (see enchilada post from yesterday).

1lb ground beef
1/2 pound chorizo
1 small red pepper
1 small red onion
1/2 bunch cilantro
1 egg
1 cup panko
salt & pepper

Vegetable Enchiladas in tomatillo salsa verde

2011-11-17T21:03:00.001-05:00

Vegetable Enchiladas in tomatillo salsa verde:

Last week I posted a report of the final day of pepper season.

Today, I walked in the kitchen door to find Raul putting the final touches on a salsa verde utilizing the balance of our seasons harvest. It's unique in that this salsa features several types of peppers, jalapeno, serrano and sweet bells. In addition he utilized a bowl full of cilantro and parsley which continues to flourish in our November garden. Finally, equal parts of tomatillo (to the peppers), a handful of garlic cloves and the biggest Spanish onion in our pantry.

To get this salsa started combine the peppers, onion, garlic and tomatillo in a large pot and add the water. Place that pot on a stove top over medium flame, simmer for 45 minutes, place in the fridge and cool overnight. In the morning combine the ingredients in a blender and run on high until smooth. Finally season to taste with sea salt, transfer to a seal able container and hold cold until needed.

The enchiladas today were filled with roasted sweet corn, spinach, potatoes, carrots and celery. It helps to heat the corn tortillas over a low flame to soften them up prior to filling, top the filled enchiladas with salsa verde and shredded cheese.

This recipe represents a restaurant potion, it's perfect for a big family gathering or a reunion, if your crowd's not that big reduce it appropriately and put the extra in a Ziploc for the freezer.

4 quarts mixed peppers

4 quarts tomatillo

2 cups chopped Spanish onion

10 cloves garlic

2 bunches cilantro

2 bunches parsley

2 tablespoons sea salt

4 quarts water

This weeks Dinner Specials | November 17-20

2011-11-16T17:17:00.001-05:00

SPECIALS
Little Neck Clam & Sweetcorn Chowder $9.95
Spinach & Mushroom Quesadilla
on blue corn tortillas with jack cheese $13.95
☙ ☙ ☙
Roasted Duck Tacos
with guacamole & salsa $18.95
Chorizo and Potato Chili Rellena
with red beans & white rice $19.95
Chili & Chicken Enchilada
with red beans and rice $18.95

Estia's Little Kitchen, a fall garden visit with Matt Abramcyk

2011-11-06T21:04:00.000-05:00

Last night brought our first frost, not hard enough to kill anything but it certainly put a dent in my pepper plants. My chefs garden has been a wonderful addition, it's helped to illustrate our mission to serve fresh locally harvested food. This was defined when my new friend Matt Abramcyk (pictured here with his family on the edge of the chefs garden), one of Manhattan's new wave restaurateurs, told me that what I've built in Sag Harbor is the kind of thing that guys like him dream of doing. I didn't take it as a grass is greener statement, simply a wonderful complement from a man who swims in the same river (different branch) as me.

Baja Sur dinner specials 11/4/11

2011-11-03T22:50:00.001-04:00

Baja Sur Dinner Specials on Thursday night:

A big showing tonight, our house was full at 6:45. This gallery of photos includes our Potato and Chorizo Rellena, which is finished with a sweet corn cream. The Roasted Cod Veracruzana plate includes green beans from the Falkowski farm stand "Country Gardens" around the corner, the cod was delivered by Gozmans this afternoon and the cilantro comes from our garden right outside the kitchen door. On Thursday & Sunday nights we offer the entree specials at $14.95.....on Friday and Saturday special dinner portions are larger and they cost a little more. Our resident regular Dave Beckwith suggests stopping by on Thursday nights—he says to make sure to ask for our new Chilean Sauvignon Blanc "Root:1".

Our Poblano Chicken tonight features a chicken breast with the beautiful sweet corn potato cake and pickled carrots and peppers from this summers Little Kitchen garden harvest. This weekend the dish will feature a half chicken roasted on the bone with the same supporting elements. From the menu, chef Raul has prepared the "Tequila Sunrise marmalade" on the fish tacos with directions straight from our friends in the kitchen on Main St. in Todos Santos, Mexico. The chocolate flan cake is inspired by Tequila Sunrise as well.

This weeks Specials | Nov 3-6

2011-11-02T03:56:00.002-04:00

BAJA MEXICAN SPECIALS | entrées 14.95 Thursday and Sunday

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup
with toasted seeds and pomegranate syrup $9.95

Shrimp & Serrano Pepper Quesadilla

on corn tortillas with onions and jack cheese $13.95

☙ ☙ ☙

Roasted Cod Veracruzana

with local green beans and brown rice $21.95

Chorizo and Potato Chili Rellena

with red beans & white rice $19.95

Roasted Half Chicken Poblano

over sweet corn potatoes and homegrown carrots & greens $22.95

Thursday and Sunday only: Chicken Breast Poblano

over sweet corn potatoes and homegrown pickles & greens $14.95

Braised Veal Shank in a clear broth.

2011-11-01T18:25:00.000-04:00

Tonight's menu was written when we weren't sure how many people would join us for dinner. The past weekends surprise snow storm (15 inches in October) has caused power outages all over Connecticut. That means no school for many and several neighboring families have no electricity to cook with, so Jessica has been on the phone sharing the love of her husbands cooking.

The recipe below comes from today's efforts, it's been cut down to serve 4 or 5 at your table. I like to fill out the braising pan with chunks of veal stew meat there bye allowing for extra visitors or extra hungry family members.I've chosen to keep the tomatoes whole in the braising pan so that the resulting broth will be clear. If you like a darker, richer sauce switch out the white wine for red and add tomato paste to the recipe ( about 3 tablespoons should do).

Start by asking the butcher for 4 similar sized veal shanks (2/3 pound each is good) and another pound of veal stew meat. When you set up to prepare the meal take time to set the veal pieces on paper and season with salt and pepper then continue on with the prep, I think the meat should rest at room temp for 20 minutes or more prior to cooking.

Cut the mirpoix to thumb nail pieces and mix with1/2 of the herbs stripped off of their stems. Open the tomato can and place the whole tomato pieces about on the edges of the braising pan. Then peel 3 more carrots and cut them into pieces that match the size of the end of your thumb. Pre heat the oven to 375
and place a saute pan on the stove top over medium flame, add 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan.

Once the butter has melted place each veal shank on the pan and brown for 4-5 minutes then turn and repeat on side 2, then transfer with tongs to the braising pan. Follow the shanks with the stew meat in the same pan, it should have enough left from the shanks so no new butter needed. Then, once the veal is browned and transferred to the braising pan use the same saute pan and drippings to soften the mirpoix and garlic cloves, over medium heat stirring for 10 minutes. As the aromatic vegetables are ready pour them over the top of the browned meat and then bring the wine and chicken stock to a simmer in that same saute pan, season with salt and pepper. Finally, pour the warm stock over the rest and wrap the braising pan with tin foil, place in the oven and braise for 2 hours.

After 2 hours, uncover the pan and place the carrots in the broth and top with the remaining herbs on their stems, recover and return to the oven turning the heat down to 300 degrees for another hour. If you need more time prior to service, turn the oven down to 200 and hold as long as needed. Serve with pureed fall squash and mashed potatoes.

Serve 4-5:

4 veal shanks (1/2 pound or more each, uniform sizes if possible)
1 pound cubed veal stew meat
1 large onion, diced
4 celery stalks, slice 1/4 inch
4 carrots (1 diced)
8 garlic cloves, stems removed, lightly smashed
2 cups chicken stock
1.5 cups white wine
1 16oz can whole peeled tomato
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 bunch fresh oregano

Linguine with Little Neck Clam Sauce.

2011-10-31T18:56:00.001-04:00

We feature Little Neck Clams in our Paella at the Little Kitchen, since it's cheaper to buy them by the bushel we often have a few dozen left on Monday for this family favorite pasta dish at home. Of course fresh linguine is our choice, especially when we have an extra pound of Lemon Pepper Linguine left after our A. Sisters Food co. farmers market appearances. The whole cooking process only takes about 30 minutes, be sure to have a bowl full of arugula and some ripe tomatoes handy to accompany this meal with crunch and color.

Start by chopping garlic, shallots and parsley while the clams soak in cold water for 5 minutes, then add 1/2 of the olive oil to a large pot over high heat. Follow the oil with half of the garlic and stir, then add the rinsed clams and stir once more. Add the wine next and then cover the pot with a lid and steam the clams open for 5-8 minutes.

Transfer the pot to your sink and begin removing the clams one at a time, remove the clam meat and hold in a clean bowl, tossing the empty shell. Once all of the clams are removed, pour the remaining broth through a tight mesh and toss the waste, reserve the broth. Chop the clams lightly on a board then place them back in the bowl making an effort to save all resulting juices.

Using the same pot, fill 3/4 with hot water and place on a high flame to bring to a boil. When the water is boiling hard, add the rest of the oil to a large saute pan on medium heat then add the remaining garlic and shallots. Now add 3 tablespoons of sea salt to the water and stir in the pasta, keep stirring, the pasta will be ready in 3 minutes (dry pasta will require 7 minutes). When the garlic begins to brown pour the broth in the saute pan and stir.

The final step involves adding the chopped clams and parsley to the broth and then transferring the pasta directly to the broth with tongs. Allow the pasta to cook for another 2 minutes in the broth over medium heat before serving.

Serves 4:

4 dozen Little Neck Clams
12 garlic cloves, cleaned and chopped
4 shallots, stemmed and chopped
10 stems of flat parsley, remove stems and chop
1.5 cup dry white wine
1 pound fresh linginie (or 1 box dry linguini)
3/4 cup oilive oil
3 tablespoons salt

2011-10-28T12:10:00.002-04:00

Over the course of the last 3 summers, Estia's Little Kitchen's farmers market business "A. Sisters Food Co." has found a home among the traveling circus that sells freshly harvested and produced food on Long Island's East End. This summer, we included as many as 5 markets (Amagansett's 27 East, Montauk, East Hampton, Sag Harbor Springs) in our July schedule. This gallery of images will introduce the faces, colors and shapes of the 2011 East End Farmers Market season.

Best of the Best 2011

2011-10-24T04:01:00.000-04:00

Baja Sur Mexican Specials this week October 20 until 24 - Entrées are still priced at $14.95 on Thursday and Sunday!

2011-10-18T07:20:00.001-04:00

Fresh Chorizo Tacos with queso fresco $12.95
Local Clam and Sweet Corn Chowder with bacon, potato & cilantro $10.95
☙ ☙ ☙
Shrimp & Scallops “con Durazno” (local peach and chili sauce) over Quail Hill greens and sofrito rice $22.95
Roli Roti Pork Loin stuffed with home grown herbs over organic brown rice and green beans $20.95
California Chicken mixed vegetables & jack cheese with rajas potatoes $20.95

Baja Sur Mexican Specials - Entrées are priced at $14.95 on Thursday and Sunday!

2011-10-06T11:34:00.000-04:00

Mole Lamb & Barley Soup with cilantro & cream garnish $11.95
Vegetable Quesadilla with guacamole on corn tortilla $12.95
☙ ☙ ☙
Local Clams & Chorizo in chili broth with sweet corn tamale $16.95
Mexicali Meatloaf with rajas potatoes & local green beans $17.95
Roasted Duck Tacos with red beans & rice $17.95
☙ ☙ ☙
Ice Cold Tecate $5.00
Garnacha Red Wine $5.00

The Whalers Church Community Fund

2011-09-21T23:07:00.003-04:00

I had a chance to share a few recipes and a story or 2 at the Whalers Church in Sag Harbor tonight. The crowd was alert and interested, what more could a guy ask for?
The Whalers Church is one of my favorite spots on Long Islands East End, it serves the community in more ways than I had imagined. Not only does it serve as a church and gathering point for the local food pantry, "The Whalers" is a gathering place for all sorts of local groups. It's an iconic building that's provided safe shelter and inspiration for Sag Harbor residents since this Village was more important to New York's economic success than Manhattan. Hard to believe, and even more surprising to learn that this fabulous building is in need of fund raising support on a monthly basis.
That's how tonight's cooking class came to be, another of many positive efforts put on by the Community Fund. We had about 35 people show up, they all paid for my introduction to eating local. The recipes (1, 2 and 3) that follow were the focus of this 2 hour conversation.

It was an honor to serve my community tonight. I was happy to see the interest our guests eyes, to hear their questions and watch them taste the flavors that come from farms and gardens that surround us.

3 Recipes presented at the Whalers Church in Sag Harbor - we're raising funds for the Food Pantry!

2011-09-21T15:51:00.002-04:00

1. Pan Roasted Striped Bass with Amber Farms Wheat Berry and Rice Cakes

This dish has supported our menu since the striped bass season opened on Long Island last July. The cakes are sometimes finished with mushrooms and truffle oil, sometimes sesame oil and sesame seeds, today with herbs from our garden, olive oil and egg whites.

Start by toasting 1 cup of wheat berries, dry in a pan over medium heat, stirring for 10 minutes. Then add 5 cups of water and a teaspoon of salt, cover and simmer for an hour. In another pan combine 1 cup of organic brown rice (rinsed in cool water) with 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Then reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Remove both from heat, spread on separate cookie sheets and cool in the refrigerator. Head to the garden and harvest a handful of parsley, half a handful of mint and some oregano.
Clean and cut the herbs, when the rice is cool, mix it with oil and egg whites in a bowl, add the herbs and 1 tablespoon of salt and stir. Then transfer to a cookie sheet and keep cool until service.

For the bass you should start with the freshest fish you can acquire, cut to 8oz. pieces, allow room temperature (pre heat oven to 450) then spread the scaled side with room temperature butter, place in a suttee pan over high heat, butter side down. When the fish skin releases from the pan
transfer as is to the oven to finish for 8-10 minutes (depending on thickness, a thicker fillet will take longer).

As the fish cooks place pieces of the rice cakes (cut into circles or squares)in a slightly oiled pan over medium heat. As they start to brown flip and finish on side 2 (about 4 minutes a side).

Plate with sliced tomatoes or any colorful vegetables from the garden.

Serves 4:

2 pounds Striped Bass
1/4 cup butter

1 cup wheat berries
1 cup organic brown rice
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 cup mixed chopped herbs
2/3 cup egg whites

2011-09-21T14:46:00.001-04:00

2. Roasted Long Island Cheese Pumpkin Salad

When you clean a pumpkin never throw out the seeds.
That's what my mother taught me as a kid, primarily
because the toasted seeds always made for an added
fall attraction at her counter for snacks. In my kitchen
the toasted seeds are shared with little hands as on
the adult salad at dinner.

This preparation can be adapted and used with other
fall squash, today we used a pumpkin and a "ferry"
squash. It also works well with butternut or red kuri,
any heavy squash with a deep flesh will due. I roasted
these for an hour, along side the seeds (tossed in olive oil).
If the flesh isn't as thick 30 minutes should work just fine.

Slice the squash in half and remove the seeds. Clean the
seeds with your fingers in a colander and cool water, then
toss with oil and spread out on a cookie sheet. Place the
squash halfs cut side down on another oiled sheet and
place in a hot 375oven. Cool in the refrigerator for 3 hours
then slice or cube then season with salt.

For this salad I chose mixed fall greens from Bette and Dales
farm stand on the "Turnpike". You could use arugula or
any mesclun mix that appeals. Toss the greens with a tablespoon
or 2 of crumbles goat cheese, 1/2 of and apple diced and a
few tablespoons of red wine vinaigrette. Then, when ready
to serve toss in the squash and the seeds.

Serve 4 or more:

for the dressing,

1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon dried oregano

for the squash and seeds

1 medium size squash or pumpkin
3 tablespoons oil (each)
1 teaspoon kosher salt (each, seeds and squash)

For the salad

4 cup mixed greens
2 tablespoon goat cheese
1 apple cubed

2011-09-21T14:06:00.001-04:00

3. Cafe con Leche flan

A straight forward take on traditional flan. Not too sweet,
if you like it sweeter add a few tablespoons of agave syrup.

Add 2 tablespoons of sugar to a clean pan on medium heat,
then add 1 tablespoon of water and swirl. Then, after 30 seconds
add a splash more of water. Stir until the caramel turns deep
brown. Transfer the caramel to 4 custard cups.

In a blender combine the sweetened evaporated milk with eggs,
instant coffee and half/ half, run for 20 seconds then pour
in equal parts over the caramel in custard cups. Transfer to the
oven (350) in a pan filled with 2 inches of warm water. Cook
for 45 minutes then test with a toothpick, it's ready if the toothpick
comes out clean, otherwise give it more time testing every 5 minutes.

Remove in the pan and allow to cool for 30 minutes in water uncovered.
Then transfer to the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. If serving the next
day cover with plastic.

Serve with whipped cream and berries.

Serves 4:

2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 can sweetened evaporated milk (4oz.)
14 oz. half / half
4 eggs (2 yolks only, 2 whole)
1.5 tablespoon instant coffee

Cocojito

2011-09-08T22:21:00.005-04:00

In the end of August, on a balmy Wednesday night I traveled to Montauk with Rupert for a sample of the offerings at Sean McPherson's sex beach bar "The
Crows Nest".

Dinner was excellent. My favorite choice was the Kale Salad, service was on the money too. My take away came off the bar. They were featuring a cocktail made with coconut water, mint and some sort of rum. I don't drink alcohol, the drink was delicious served virgin. I'm going to call it the Cocojito.

We don't serve spirits at The Little Kitchen so I chose raw organic agave syrup and lime juice as a replacement. The muddled mint comes from our garden. It helps to shake the "Cocojito" on ice before serving. Try it in a 16 oz shaker glass. Add a shot of bacardi if that kick's what your looking for.

8 oz coconut water

2 oz lime juice

2oz raw organic agave syrup

5 mint leaves crushed n the bottom of the glass

Lymanade, with cucumber and mint

2011-09-01T22:02:00.009-04:00

On Sunday last week a hurricane roared through Sag Harbor, her name was Irene and in the end my lemon cucumber plants were striped of their leaves. Not a problem as the plants seem to be regenerating with new flowers and the existing cucumbers are much easier to find with the thinned foliage.

We've had a regular at the

East Hampton farmers market

asking for our Cucumber Mint Lymanade for a few weeks now.

The A. Sisters table's featured raspberry,

strawberry, watermelon, peach and cantaloupe

Lymanades as the season has progressed. Now

it's time to respond to the call for the Mojito

mixer that's been a late summer hit for the

past 3 years.

Each of our Lymanades feature a different

seasonal, locally harvested fruit but the

basic recipe remains the same. Combine equal

parts of lemon and lime juice (1 cup each) and

then that much fruit puree (2 cups) with enough

simple syrup to soften the citrus (1/2 to 1 cup)

and shake in an recycled wine bottle, chill and

serve over ice with soda or your favorite spirit.

In this case start with the lemon and lime juice

in a blender then add the cucumbers after the

ends and seeds have been removed. Run the

blender on high for 3 minutes then add 6 or

8 shredded mint leaves into the mix and pulse

the blender several times taking care not to

completely puree the mint.

1 cup fresh lemon juice

1 cup fresh lime juice

6 lemon cucumbers, just smaller than a tennis ball

3/4 cup simple syrup

6 to 10 mint leaes, stems removed, torn

Scallops and prawns in peach ginger sauce

2011-08-28T16:29:00.006-04:00

This is one of the easiest "oh boy this

is great" grilling recipes I know. A few basics to get started, ask the fish man for 10-20 prawns and 10-20 sea scallops. That simply means that you'd like shellfish that come 10 to 20 per pound. When the prawns are thawed remove the main shell but leave the head and tail on. With a small knife slice the back of the prawn open and run the butterflied pieces under cold water to rinse away the brown stuff.

To clean the scallops, remove the muscle

which is a little chip of flesh that comes

off with the flick of your thumb. Then take

a skewer and run it through the back of the

prawn tail, through the center of a scallop

and the into the prawn head. Place the

skewered fish on a plate and keep cold in

the fridge until service.

The sauce is easy, combine all of the ingredients

in a blender and run until smooth. Store the

sauce in a tall glass so when you're ready to

grill, dip the skewered shellfish in the sauce

and place on the grill. Have everything else

on your menu ready because these skewers cook

very quickly, place on a hot grill and flip after

3 minutes, then after 3 minutes more remove

with a spatula.

Save the remaining sauce and serve it at the table

because it adds nice flavor and color to the plate

for those who need more.

Serves 8:

1.5 lb 10-20 prawns

1.5 lb 10-20 sea scallops

24 wooden, 8 inch skewers (soak in water before using)

2 ripe peaches

1/2 cup diced onions

1/2 cup diced red peppers

1/4 cup grated fresh ginger

3 tablespoons sesame oil

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup agave syrup

2 tablespoons sambol chili paste

1/2 teaspoon salt

Vegetable stuffed peppers with Amber Waves wheat berries

2011-08-28T13:28:00.003-04:00

Another Tuesday on Quail Hill, sunny, dry,

August at it's best. I waited for a little girl

to finish using the pitch fork in the potato

bed. Her hair was tied back in a pink bandanna.

If she dug 10 potatoes I'd be surprised but that's

not what it was all about. The look in her eyes,

excitement on her face and tone of her voice

screamed the story of perfect summer adventure.

It's about community in Amagansett, from

Main street to Indian Wells. The new field

at Quail Hill is just another corner of the map

that so many families keep folded in that special

drawer that's saved for August.

On this particular evening we had an Amagansett

resident visiting our table, he lives in a house that

sits on the hill that over looks Quail Hill's fields.

He's an old family friend who's been a vegetarian

for years, oh sure a little fish, some chicken but when

Alec comes to dinner we always make an effort to include

a vegetable center piece on the menu to ensure a full

belly for the big man.

To my great surprise it was our other honored guest,

Jessica's friend Karen from Greenwich who raved about

the peppers, Alec was crazy for the Shrimp & Scallops in

peach ginger sauce.

On my arrival at the farm I ran into Scott Chasky and asked

him what I should focus on when harvesting, his suggestion

was to focus on the peppers in valley. I found 4 perfect for

stuffing and a handful of others with enough color to make a

dish pop. In the next row over there were plenty of eggplant

and at the stand a handful of garlic.

To start, slice the eggplant into cubes about the size of your

thumbnail, chop the garlic and place the rice in a bowl,

cover in cold water to soak. Toss the cubes and garlic in olive oil

with the colorful peppers, and a few teaspoons of salt and pepper.

Now lay the seasoned vegetables on a sheet pan and place it in the

oven pre heated to 375. While the eggplant softens chop and rinse

the leeks, place half on the sheet pan with the rest and half in a

saute pan with the butter, soften over medium flame.

Next step, slice the peppers from top to bottom and carefully

remove the stems and seeds. Now place the wheat berries

on a sheet pan dry and set in the oven with the rest, then

combine the rice (drained) in a casserole with the leeks and the

herbs and season with salt and pepper. When the wheat berries

are toasted but not too dark add them to the rice and then top

with 1 quart of boiling chicken stock. Top with the split peppers

and stuff the peppers with the eggplant from the oven. Follow

by topping with arugula and diced tomatoes and return to the

oven. At this point I find it helps to turn the oven up to 450 for

40 minutes and then return the temperature to 375 and top

the peppers with a mixture of bread crumbs and Parmesan

cheese. When the cheese begins to brown the dish should be

ready. Test the rice before serving. Not a problem to leave in

the warm (turned off) oven for up to 30 minutes while grilled

any accompaniments.

Makes stuffed peppers for 8:

4 large bell peppers

5 small colorful peppers (not too hot)

4 medium sized eggplant

6 leeks

5 garlic cloves

5 colorful (mixed) tomatoes, chop

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 bunch oregano, chop

1/2 bunch parsley, chop

3 stems mint, chop

1 bunch arugula

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup organic brown rice

1 cup wheat berries (Amber Farms from Amagansett)

1 quart chicken stock

1/2 cup bread crumbs

1 cup grated Parmeasn

Quail Hill Farm salad with Jessica''s marvelous dressing

2011-08-17T09:33:00.009-04:00

Quail Hill Farm was quiet on Tuesday afternoon, a surprise for a beautiful

day in August.

The only people that I encountered,

besides the farm team

weeding in the greens

patch, were a group of

scientists in search

of worms and butterflies.

My harvest was abundant, plenty of Cherry Tomatoes,

Arugula, Mizuna and mixed lettuces like Cocarde and

Red Sails. The bean patch was overflowing with yellow

and green snap beans, I dug red potatoes for about

5 minutes until the count reached my quota and as

I exited, to the left 2 rows of healthy zucchini plants

provided young finger size pieces of sunburst and

yellow squash with the flowers still attached.

Our salad last night was filled with the Quail Hill

goodness. With the salad greens listed above tossed

in a wooden bowl along side blanched/ chilled beans

and cherry tomatoes. The dressing, organized

by my wife Jessica is always perfect. Her advise

is it make it thick by emulsifying the ingredients

whisking vigorously in a cold mettle bowl.

Serves 6:

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Tomato, mozzarella and pesto lasagna

2011-08-14T21:59:00.007-04:00

Finally we see tables covered

in tomatoes at the farmers

markets. There's been a blight

on Long Island's east end,

it seems to have reduced our

normal harvest by 50%.

While Estia's garden sports a

fabulous offering of cherry tomatoes,

we lost all of our slicing varieties.

It's hard for a gardener to buy tomatoes

at the market but this week they finally

came in with enough volume that

tomatoes no longer sell for a premium

price. There were 3 big ones

left on the counter at dinner time

tonight, with only 3 of us at home

a tomato lasagna seemed the quick

and easy choice.

To start, I sliced each tomato into

1/4 inch slices saving the tops and

bottoms for the second layer. I also

sliced a shallot into thin slices, the basil

was shredded and the ends of the shallot

was chopped and mixed with the basil

and all of the tomato refuse left on the

cutting board.

We have a cheese drawer at the house that

often provides treasures from the market,

tonight it produced a small container of

goat cheese from Catapano (North Fork),

about 1/2 pound of fresh mozzarella, a container

of spreadable cream cheese and container of

A. Sisters basil pesto, an egg and a handful of

herbed, pitted green olives.

That's all you really need from the fridge for

a nice summer lasagna. It helps to have some

Barilla "no boil" lasagna sheets in the pantry too.

I find them easier to use when they've been

softened for 30 second in a pan of boiling water

so that's how I stated out cooking tonight.

Pre heat the oven to 375, then pour 1/2 the olive

oil in the bottom of a 5x10 inch lasagna pan.

then lay 1/2 of the onions and sliced tomatoes

in the bottom of the pan. Follow with 3 sheets

of lasagna spread out on top of the tomatoes.

Combine the goat cheese and cream cheese in

a bowl with the olives and one egg, season with

some salt and pepper and stir, then pour 3/4 of

the mixture on the pasta. Next step is another

layer of pasta topped with a mixture of all of the

tomato tops and bottoms chopped up and combined

with the pesto and the remaining cheese mixture.

Then lay a third level of pasta in the pan topped with

the remaining tomato slice, onions and the basil

mixed with the rest of the olive oil. Season with salt

and pepper then place the pan in the oven for 20

minutes.

As the lasagna begins to bubble remove it from the

oven and top it with the sliced fresh mozzarella. Return

to the oven and cook for another 20 minutes or until

the cheese begins to brown. Remove and serve.

Serves 4:

3 large tomatoes

1 shallot

1 egg

5 oz goat cheese

5oz cream cheese

12 green olives

4 tablespoons pesto

1/2 pound fresh mozzarella

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 package Barilla lasagna sheets

5 basil leaves

salt/pepper

Northern Pike for breakfast

2011-08-08T22:24:00.010-04:00

A light fog hung low over the lake

on Wednesday morning as we

slipped my fathers canoe off the

shore into Christian lake. Still on

New York time, it was easy rising

early on our first morning in Wisconsin.

Early casts brought nothing more than

a hook up with Lily pads at the lakes edge,

15 minutes later just off an old dock

foundation a Northern Pike hit my

spinner (Mepps #2, copper spoon,

plain hook). The fish ran toward

deep water and turned just as my

reel began to share it's last 50 feet

of line. Jessica squealed with excitement

as the fish appeared across the canoes bow.

Fresh fish for breakfast is a time honored

tradition at Chez Nu, my parents lake home

outside of Pembine in Wisconsin's' north

woods. This meal was in motion before

we were half way around the lake.

My mother had started the bacon and the

eggs were scrambled in a bowl.

Start by rolling the cleaned fish in an egg wash

of whisked eggs (2) and milk, then coat the fish

with a mixture of corn meal and flour tossed with

salt and pepper.

Northern Pike are rather boney fish so I recommend

cooking them whole with scales removed, boning

on a cutting board after they've been removed from

the oven. I also recommend starting them in a large

frying pan over high heat in bacon fat. After cooking

the fish for at least 3 minutes per side, transfer to

a baking sheet placing it in a pre heated 375 oven

for 20 minutes.

When removed from the oven the meat should peel

off the bones easily and present well on a plate along

side scrambled eggs and bacon.

Feeds 6 or more

1 Northern pike or other fresh water fish (25 inches or larger)

12 eggs

12 slices of bacon

1/2 cup milk

2 cups Aunt Jemima's corn meal and flour mix

salt/ pepper

Small Space Huge Flavors at Estia's Little Kitchen

2011-07-13T08:37:00.005-04:00

By Christopher Beninati

Sag Harbor - Estias Little Kitchen (1615 Sag Harbor/Bridgehampton Turnpike, 631-725-1045) is a very tiny building that is placed gently in the heart of the Hamptons on the line of Sag Harbor and Bridgehampton. The lack of size of the actual building is replaced by the melting pot of flavors and freshness of the Mexican cuisine brought to you by Chef and restaurateur Colin Ambrose. The restaurant stands alone next to a beautiful garden of fresh vegetables and bright flowers making it the perfect place to experience new flavors and textures.

The dining room is very intimate with a splash of yellows and greens and it is all tied in with a beautiful mosaic which speaks history to the location of the establishment. The tables are perfectly placed making it the ideal spot to eat and peek at your neighbor's offerings as you engage in conversation with strangers and friends alike. A very nice selection of wine and beer landscape the menu adding in some local favorites including a few from the Wolffer Estate. French wines also are a hit, including wines by the glass such as Clos du Bois cabernet Sauvignon $15, which was earthy and the perfect complement to the fresh start to the meal with white bean puree with homemade fresh organic olive oil and fresh bread which is standard to every table.

Love your love handles with chocolate flan. (Christopher Beninati)

The appetizers all sound pleasing and are, such as the duck tamales which were nothing short of perfect - not to dry and the right amount of pork, or the turtle rolls filled with greens, black bean puree, avocado and napa wrapped in a flour tortilla. The sensational freshness of each ingredient stood out in your mouth making your taste buds begging for more and you soon begin to understand the importance of the restaurant's own garden on site.

After you have placed your order the cozy dining room makes you hear and respect all aspects of how a successful Hamptons restaurant is run: the clashing of the dishes, surrounding chatter from neighboring tables, beer glasses being filled and the entrée orders being fired and ready to go. This setting is nothing is perfect for crisp summer nights for a date or catching up with an old friend.

A wide variety of entrees will make any eater satisfied as the Mexican classics stand out such as steak Azteca and the grilled fish tacos. Other classics such as the roasted pork burrito were sensational and filled with over sized pieces of pork, beans and fresh avocado salad. The salsa for dipping was delicious. Nontraditional favorites like the crab cakes with Vida slaw made the taste buds rise with enough crab meat to counter balance the sweet and spicy slaw, both ingredients played off one another very well.

The bar crowd increased during the night as the lovely snug restaurant space was turned into a bustling Hamptons scene. Classics for dessert and must haves are the cinnamon sweet churros served with fresh fruit. The golden brown crunchy texture worked very well with the melt in your mouth warm and soft chewy inside. The Chocó Flan cake with Kailua sauce is as good as any flan you can try because of its rich chocolate taste and airy texture.

A true Hamptons staple is Estias Little Kitchen, the place to dine on traditional Mexican cuisine with a unique twist and the freshest ingredients supplying the artist and his craft. This quaint South Shore cottage blends culture and cuisine to the overall tradition of Sag Harbor and the entire East End.

Fresh fettuccine with arugula, garlic and butter

2011-06-21T23:07:00.017-04:00

My daughters gave me a back yard fire pit for Fathers Day, it's awesome. Tonight I tried a hanger steak on the grill and was amazed at the wonderful smokey flavor that placed this steak near the top of my lifetime list.

When I planned tonight's' dinner at the end of a longday it was the lemon pepper fettuccine that had myattention. I organized the ingredients quickly, havingmade the pasta for tomorrows farmers market in Amagansett earlier in the afternoon, the garlic and arugula came from the garden and I had a piece of Parmesan in the fridge.

The whole dinner was ready within 30 min. of arriving home, first the fire was started (using a pile of wood gathered at the beach with the girls on Fathers Day). Then I boiled 2 quarts of water, sliced the first garlic harvest of the year, added thegarlic to a saute pan with butter and then choppedthe spicy rocket arugula. When the fire settled inand coals were obvious I placed the steak on the grill.

Fresh pasta is best with a light/ simple sauce, heat over medium flame until the garlic begins to brown. Then remove from the flame and add the arugula. Fresh pasta cooksquickly (3 minutes) so preparing the sauce first is important. I learned long ago to salt the water and not the sauce, a trick that served me well tonight. When the pasta is cooked take care to transfer it directly to the saute pan andadd a few spoonfuls of water too. Plate and serve immediately.

serves 2

1 pc hanger steak (1lb)

1/2 pound fresh pasta (lemon pepper from the A. Sisters Food co.)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cloves garlic

2 cups fresh arugula (chopped)

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

3 tablespoons salt for the pasta water

Farm yard pork loin "Roti style"

2011-06-19T22:33:00.011-04:00

The plan for this weekend was to highlightNew York raised pork at the Wolffer Estate, where a main course of braised pork butt stew will share the table with several other dishes including grilled vegetables, hanger steak "Azteca" and seafood paella. At the "Little Kitchen" the special menu features our "Roti Style" pork loin stuffed with herbs from our garden (oregano, parsley, thyme, mint and cilantro) mixed with garlic and lemon zest.

If you haven't ordered a whole hog and planto serve this dish at a summer party, no problem.Give your local butcher advance notice and ask for a full pork loin with rib bones removed and bellyleft on. This cut should measure at least 15 inches long and a little more in width from the top ofthe loin to the bottom of the belly.

Start in the garden (or at the Farmers Market) and gather parsley, mint, cilantro, thyme and oregano. Rinse the herbs and remove the thickest stems, then rough chop them all together. Placethe chopped herbs in a large bowl with choppedgarlic, lemon zest, olive oil and salt. Mix the herbs with the rest of the ingredients and then rub the mixture on the inside of the pork loin and belly.

Next, roll the loin from the top down ending up with the belly wrapped around the herb coated loin. Tie the roast off with butchers twine and place in a large roasting pan. Score the skin with a sharp knife taking care not to cut the twine andcover the pan with foil.

Place the roasting pan in a 350 oven and roastfor 2 hours covered, then remove the foil andfinish in the oven for another hour and a half.

To serve, slice the roast into thin pieces and platewith asparagus and sofrito rice.

Serves 20:

1 full pork loin, belly on

2 bunches parsley

1/2 bunch mint

1/2 bunch thyme

1/2 bunch cilantro

1/2 bunch oregano

10 garlic cloves (chopped fine)

1/2 cup olive oil

2 large lemons (zest only)

3 tablespoons salt

Chilatole (Pork in salsa verde)

2011-06-19T16:30:00.016-04:00

Dave Bondlow got up early on Thursday morning and drove to Pine Plains New York to a small slaughter house that handles animals raised on farms in the immediate area using humane practices. He picked up one 180 pound pig, split and chilled.

As soon as Dave arrived in Sag Harbor I got busy breaking down the carcass, first removing the primals then separating the rib bones from the loins. The art of butchery takes time, as a novice working with whole animals, this was an exciting first step.

Serving 180 pounds of pork calls for a plan and this one wasgenerated by a wedding rehearsal dinner that I executed for mylate friend Christian Wolffer and his ex wife Naomi Wolffer-Marks,it was in celebration of their daughter Joanna's wedding to Max,a handsome young man that she meet on a train 3 years ago.The plan in this case called for "Chilatole" a pork stew introducedto me by my sous chef Raul, served along with a seafood and chickenpaella and slice hanger steak to 120 guests at the Wolffer Estate inBridgehampton, NY.

The idea of a Mexican flavored celebration came from Naomi and Joanna, I thought the Chilatole would serve well because it provides deep, rich Mexican flavors and would be easy to plate and serve family style for a large group of people.

The first step was to bone the pork primals (ham, shoulder butt and picnic butt) and then cut each piece again into 4 smaller portions. Then we place them in 3 hotel pans (3 inch deep roasting pans) and placed them in a 375 oven (wrapped in foil) for 3 hours. While this was happening, the bones were placed in a large pot over medium heat and mixed with mirpoix (onions, celery and carrots chopped rough) stirred until the vegetables were soft and then covered with water. The stock was simmered for as long as the pork roasted.

The next step involved roasting a mixture of vegetables (tossed invegetable oil) on a sheet pan in the oven with the pork. The mixtureof tomatillo, onion, jalapeno, zucchini and garlic was roasted foran hour until the onions were soft, then transferred to a blender and pureed until smooth. When the pork came out of the oven, it cooled for an hour in refrigeration and the stock was strained and then skimmed of any fat that rose to the surface.

After the pork had cooled to a temperature that allowed it to be handled, it was cut into cubes a little smaller than a golf ball and returned to a hotel pan. We then poured the stock over the top and added salt, pepper, cumin and ground coriander seed to taste, followed by several bay leaves. The pan was returned to the oven and cooked for another hour until service.

Just prior to service we added corn and allowed the corn to cook with the pork for 20 minutes. To finish the dish we added a few cups of the vegetable puree, tasting as we went to make sure the flavor was to our taste. Then the service bowls were filled with stew and topped with shredded, fried corn tortillas and cilantro sprouts.

This recipe serves 6:

4lb pork (picnic butt or shoulder butt)

2 tomatillo

1 cup chopped onions

10 jalapeno peppers

3 zucchini (chopped)

4 garlic cloves

4 corn cobs (kernels only)

6 bay leaves

1.5 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

3 corn tortillas

1/2 cup fresh cilantro

Dan's Paper Restaurant Review

2011-06-17T09:14:00.000-04:00

June 16, 2011 by Stacy Dermont

Estia’s Little Kitchen is that adorable little place on the West side of the Bridgehampton Turnpike, just outside of Sag Harbor. I’ve heard good things about it for years, but until last week I had not been inside.

It’s just as cute on the inside and the service is friendly. We were a dinner party of four so we were able to try many different things. One member of our group had been there many times before, but only for breakfast or lunch.

To add to the festive atmosphere, I started the evening with a bright orange mimosa served in a big, round glass. My husband enjoyed a glass of Paumanok Chenin Blanc 2009 with the appetizers and switched to a Paumanok Late Harvest Riesling for the dessert course. Estia’s drink offerings include local wines from Wölffer and Grapes of Roth, plus beer and wines from abroad including a selection from Spain, Chile and Argentina.

Fleisher's Organic and Grass fed meats, butchery 101

2011-05-25T23:32:00.008-04:00

This photo essay was created over 4 days at the butcher shop Fleisher's owned by Joshua and Jessica Applestone, 38 Wall st. Kingston NY. Fleisher's is a unique butcher shop that sources all of it's products from

farms in the Kingston area. They're proud to wave the sustainable flag, with a preference for grass fed animals. The service they offer

provides a butcher shop that's open to the public Thursday through Sunday as well as wholesale delivery to restaurants that are interested in buying whole or quartered products.

In addition to the sale of meat, they offer a training program with a range of seminar formats. I chose Butchery 101 a 5 day session that will end

tomorrow. These are my memories of the classes that I enjoyed with 3 other men (Scott, Brian and Colin)under the direction of master butcher and ex Culinary Institute of America instructor Hans Sebold. This is

an experience that I value highly and would suggest

strongly to anyone interested in learning the basics

of the butchery trade.

Pike Lane B and B visiting Woodstock

2011-05-25T23:00:00.004-04:00

With Memorial Day Weekend closing in I decided to

take a working vacation spending 5 days at Fleisher's

Grass Fed and Organic meats in Kingston NY. During my

stay I've started each morning in the Fleisher's butcher

shop, one of 4 men studying butchery under the guidance

of master butcher Hans Sebold.

My first evening included a visit to the Park Lane B&B

in Woodstock. I found Woodstock to be a refreshing

change of pace, as if stepping back into the 70's. The

streets of Woodstock are lined with small shops flying

the tie dye flag reminiscent of the Grateful Dead ans all things that grew from the great days spent at Yasburos farm just 20 minutes up the road.

Staying at Park Lane was a treat, it's a house in the woods, quiet and clean. I was greeted by a phone call from Adam Weiss the owner suggesting I settle in and make myself at home. A plate of freshly baked cookies

ready for me the the door.

After settling in I had time to walk through Adam's fine vegetable gardens admiring the raised beds filled with spring crops like asparagus and mint.

Then, per Adam's suggestion I drove through the village and beyond to find Cucina, an excellent restaurant with a lively bar and a menu heavy with salads, pizzas and pastas.

Unfortunately the haze of this May sat heavy on the Catskill mountains. I'll have to return to see everything Woodstock has to offer another time.

Jessica's Asian Chicken Meatball Soup

2011-05-10T16:41:00.005-04:00

I've been married to the same person (Jessica) for almost

20 years. The union has been spectacular, producing 3

wonderful daughters, several restaurants, a few comfortable

homes and a common understanding that I cook and she

drives the girls from here to there and back again. Tonight

the menu has to be soft, Jessica has had oral surgery and

as the pain and throbbing progresses so will her hunger.

Soft chicken meat balls with spinach and Asian spice simmer

in chicken stock as I write.

Why Asian spice you might ask, the truth is today I have no

garlic in my pantry, if I did this dish would be made with 2

cloves. Instead I turn to the mystery jar, labeled only in Japanese.

My best friend from grade school is married to a lovely

Japanese woman. Shes so wonderful that today she works

in Japan for free, serving her country, rescuing dogs and cats

that were orphaned in the earth quake. My friend Jeff has

been home alone in LA for several weeks now, while his bride

Mayu lives on the other side of the Pacific.

On my last visit to LA, Mayu gave me a mystery jar as a gift,

it's a clear glass container filled with what looks like a melange

of seeds, chili and garlic. The liquid must be oil, if my taste

buds are correct it's a very mild sesame oil. The dark brown

contents of this jar provide wonderful depth of character

to anything they accompany.

To prepare the Chicken meatballs start with 2 boneless

skinless breasts chopped into thumbnail size pieces,

1/2 small onion diced fine. 1 carrot diced fine, 4 tablespoons

of parsley chopped, and 2 pieces of sun dried tomato chopped.

Combine all in a food processor and run until it begins to

smooth out (45 seconds). then place in a bowl and add 1 cup of

pre cooked red quinoa (chilled). Mix by hand and roll meatballs

smaller than a golf ball.

In a sauce pan bring 2 cups of chicken stock to a simmer, add

1/2 cup white wine and 1 cup diced tomato (fresh is best, canned

tonight). Season with 1 tablespoon of Asian mystery sauce (or

2 cloves of garlic and a little hot chili paste in sesame oil) and

then add the meatballs simmer until cooked through. When you're

ready to serve, stir in 2 cups of chopped fresh spinach.

2 chicken breasts (boneless skinless)

1 cup red quinoa (pre cooked, cool)

1/2 small white onion

1 carrot

2 pieces sun dried tomato

1/2 bunch parsley

2 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup diced tomato

1 tablespoon secret Asian sauce

2 cups fresh spinach, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

Roti style pork belly w/ chili, ginger, garlic & cilantro

2011-03-07T17:38:00.006-05:00

You'll find a grocery on the edge of South Norwalk near the Rt. 7 extension with blue awnings, it's called The SONO Country Market. My buddy "Hoops" calls it the pig store. There's an excellent butcher at the "Pig Store" his name's Arullio and he smiled when I asked for a piece of pork loin with the belly meat attached, rib bones removed.

My vision for this dish comes from a truck at the farmersmarket on the Ferry Building property in San Fransisco. The outfit's called Roli Roti, a rotisserie on wheels, their pork sandwich rocks. In my view the trick is on the butchers cut. That's where Arullio comes into the picture, he did what I asked when he prepared a special cut, bone off, belly on pork loin.

At lunch Hoops told me about his recipe for this cut (sans loin) which calls for the skin on, scored and studded with garlic. Stating the oven at 475 and placing the pork belly in a roasting pan seasoned with garlic and salt for an hour then reducing the temp to 350 and cooking for another hour. I was inspired so I headed out to introduce myself to Arullio and try my own version of the Roli style roast.

In this case I was able to get a portion of the pig that included the tail end of the loin with about 10 inches of belly connected.Upon arriving at home at 3:30 I started by removing the skin and leaving about 1/4 inch of belly fat on the roast. Then I laid the piece on a cutting board fat side down and seasoned the loin and belly with chopped guajillo chili, salt (seeds removed), sliced spring onions (whites), cilantro, chopped garlic and chopped fresh ginger. Then I rolled the roast and placed it fat side up on top of the onion greens in a roasting pan. Started for an hour at high heat (475) then reduced the temp to 350. The next 3 hours did the trick, if the loin was larger it may need more time.

Remove from oven and let stand for 10 minutes, then slice and serve.
Tonight our salad was a mix of radishes, carrots, spring onions and cilantro, tossed in a vinaigrette made with garlic, ginger, cilantro,orange juice, white vinegar, olive oil with a pinch of salt. Then the salad is spooned over sliced avocado. Serve on a small side plate and place the pork on a serving of red rice in the center of your main plate.

3 lb pork belly w/ loin on if possible

2 guajillo chilies, seeds removed, chopped into small pieces

6 spring onons, whites chopped

3 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped into small pieces

3 tablespoons fresh garlic, chopped into small pieces

1/2 bunch of cilantro, leaves only

1 teaspoons salt

Chili con carne

2011-02-19T17:17:00.006-05:00

The fire's blazing as I sit at home in East Hampton after a busy day in the "Little Kitchen". We've had Chili con carne specials for years. It's a good winter dish that supports the breakfast list as an omelet filler (Chili and jack cheese) and by the bowl at lunch.The recipes we use have come from the back of our minds as Raul and I improvise our way through the short, cold days of February.

This recipe is being organized with continuity in mind. As Auggie, our hard working prep cook aspires toa sous chef position, writing a chili recipe for Auggie is a labor of love. Today's Chili con carne and Jack Cheese Omelet was a hit, we also saw several tables share the Chili and Cheese Dip special with guacamole and corn chips.

Serves a party of 10

1 cup celery, diced fine

1 cup carrots, diced fine

3 cups onion, diced a bit larger

5 jalapeno peppers, seeded and chopped

1 pound ground beef

2 cups, shredded braised pork shoulder

2 cups dried red kidney beans, simmered in water until soft

4 cups canned, chopped tomato

3 tablespoons garlic powder

3 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 cup red wine

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Start the beans in a pot full of water at least 1/2 hour prior, over medium flame, do not add any salt.

In another pan bring the vegetables together with oil over a medium flame stirring occasionally until soft. Then add the ground beef, stir until browned. Next add the shredded pork, tomato, wine and spices. Drain any excess liquid from the beans, add to the main pot. Simmer for an hour.

Serve in a bowl topped with cheese, place under a broiler for a minute then add a spoonful of guacamole & corn chips for dipping.

To bad we don't have a fire at The Little Kitchen, on a day like this (temp. 22) we sure could use one. It's nice to have the chili (which is mild) and a bottle of hot sauce to warm the souls at our counter.

One legged Shepherds pie

2011-02-08T16:00:00.009-05:00

This recipe was developed because last nights roasted chicken went uneaten. I call it "One Legged Shepherds Pie" because it seems logical that after loosing a leg, a sheep herder might scale back to chickens.

If you don't have time to make the chicken stock from scratch its ok to make the sauce by combining 16oz of chicken broth from a can with 1 tablespoon of tomato paste (double concentrated, from a tube "Amore") and 1/2 cup Merlot or other red wine in a sauce pan and reduce by more than 1/2 (about 1 cup).

1 roasted chicken (3lb), meat off the bone (cut meat into 1/2 inch cubes)

4 medium yellow potatoes (peeled and quartered)

1/2 cup whole milk

3 tablespoons butter (unsalted)

1 teaspoon salt

2 carrots, peeled and diced

1 large shallot, chopped

2 celery stalks, rinsed and chopped

2 cups frozen peas

2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

When your chicken sauce is ready add the frozen peas to the warm sauce and remove from heat. Then add the cut chicken, then the herbs. In a small saute pan combine the carrots, onion and celery then heat through until soft with a splash of veg. oil. Now add the vegetables to the chicken and peas.

Meanwhile, bring 1/2 quart of water to a boil and cook the potatoes until soft. Then strain the water and add the milk salt and butter, whip with a stiff hand whisk to mash.

In a 6x4 inch casserole or iron skillet (3 inches deep) first add the chicken and vegetable mixture then spread the mashed potatoes over the top.

Preheat the oven to 350 and place on the center rack, cookingfor 1/2 hour. Serve family style with a spoon and a salad inanother bowl.

I think a one legged shepherd might like some lambs tongue or dandelion greens in his salad, perhaps some mushrooms from a near by forest cooked with ramps from the edge of the stream in a spoonful of the fat off the chicken stock. Toss all with a splash of red wine that's gone stale in the back of his storage box and season to taste with salt and pepper.

He might even invite a shepherd with 2 legs to join him.

Whole Wheat-Chocolate Chip Muffins

2011-01-27T19:46:00.006-05:00

Last night Whittier and I made 2 dozen blueberry muffins for her class breakfast scheduled for this morning. Then it snowed 14 inches overnight,the phone rang at 4:30 am... "Snow Day". We put the blueberry muffins in two Ziplock bags and set them aside for Friday, that's when Whittier mentioned that she has 90 kids in her 6th grade class. Something wasn't right, 2 dozen muffins, was someone else bringing muffins? In fact the answer was yes, one other family, but we were asked to bring 4 dozen "mixed muffins" so we went back to the oven.

Tonight we're making Whole Wheat- Chocolate Chipmuffins (w/ no nuts, a must in todays school breakfast list of rules). This option will feature healthy whole wheat flour with the balance of good Wisconsin butter and a little fabulous brown sugar to keep 'em coming back for more. At least it'll keep the teachers coming back.

Start with 2 bowls, 1 large 1 small

1 (2 doz muffin) muffin pan w/ paper muffin cups

2.5 cups whole wheat pastry flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 eggs

1.5 cup milk

6 tablespoons butter (melted)

1/2 cup chocolate chips (semi sweet)

Preheat oven to 375

Combine the eggs and milk in a small bowl with a whisk.

Combine all dry ingredients in a larger bowl (sifting the flour, salt and baking powder).Then add the wet ingredients including butter, mix for 5 minutes with a spoon.

Fill each of the paper muffin cups and place on the bottomshelf in your oven, bake for 15 minutes. After 15 minutesspin the muffin pan and finish for 5 minutes or until the muffins are golden brown.

Chicken and chorizo meatball soup (Albondigas)

2011-01-26T08:10:00.006-05:00

The first time that I saw "Albondigas" on a menu was at ourChristmas dinner in an excellent neighborhood restaurantoutside of Cabo San Lucas called La Fonda. We went to La Fondabecause of its reputation for authentic Mexican cuisine andthe table side entertainment, obviously they took it a step further with dishes like Albondigas.

At La Fonda the Albondigas (meatballs) were servedin a heavy tomato sauce on a large plate as an entree. After a bitof research I found that the Mexican meatball preparation issimilar to the Italian preparation, of course a spicy sausage is used, in this case chorizo.

To adapt the recipe for The Little Kitchen we've taken it a stepfurther and used our house made ground chicken in place of ground beef. Another twist utilizes precooked rice instead of breadcrumbswhich we have in spades at the end of most weekday shifts in January.

This soup is intended to be a light, brothy chicken stock preparationif you like it thicker just use more tomato and less chicken stock toadjust for your table.

1 pound ground chicken

2 tablespoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons diced sun dried tomato

1/2 pound chorizo (chopped into small pieces)

1 cup mirpoix ( celery, carrot, onion) diced fine

2 eggs

1 cup pre cooked brown rice

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground cumin

Pre heat your oven to 350.

Mix the meatball ingredients in a bowl completely thenroll the meatballs to the size you like, we make them small (about the size of a quarter) so they cook quickly and are easy to eat on a spoon.

Place the meatballs on a sheet pan that's been lubricatedwith vegetable oil (2 tablespoon). Then put the sheet pan in the hot oven for 30 minutes.

While the meatballs cook bring the soup together on your stove top.

2 cups mirpoix, 1/4 inch dice

2 cloves fresh garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 quart chicken broth

1 can (18oz) Muir Glen chopped tomatoes

1 cup white wine

2 tablespoons chipotle chile

salt & pepper to taste

cilantro for garnish

Start with the mirpoix, garlic and oil in a soup pot and stir overmedium heat, when soft add the rest. Bring the soup to a simmer.When the meatballs are ready,remove from the oven and placethem in the soup while hot ( take care not to transfer extra oil).

Serve hot with a cilantro garnish if you like.

Whole Grain Pancakes

2011-01-24T08:19:00.004-05:00

The New York Times called them "Eye-openers in the morning", I'll go along with that. For years I've played around with many different whole wheat recipes for our pancake specials. Last Wednesday, "The Minimalist" Mark Bittman set me straight. The trick to these moist pancakes, in my mind, is in the pre-cooked oatmeal.

I've taken liberties with Mr Bittman's recipe, removing the white flour and adding wheat germ. The Little Kitchen approach also modified the texture further by removing nuts and fruit. There by allowing my staff the option of offering a whole grain variety with bananas one day and granola the next.

Breakfast for 5

1 cup whole wheat flour

1/2 cup rolled oats

1/4 cup wheat germ

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

2 eggs

3 cups cooked steel cut oatmeal (chill)

Combine all dry ingredients in a large bowl.Combine milk and eggs in a separate bowl andwhip with a whisk, then add the cold oatmeal.Bring all together in the large bowl.

As you approach service, bring a griddleto heat over medium flame and then add butteror oil to the surface. Test one pancakes first payingattention to the clock. Keep in mind that these pancakes require more time than your average white flour pancakes.

Bittman suggests having the oven preheated to 200 to hold the pancakes in as the crowd enters the kitchen. In my case, each plate leaves the kitchen immediately so I've reminded my staff to give thepancakes extra time on the griddle so they are sure tocook all the way through.

Add any fruit, nuts or chocolate as needed.

Red lentil and chorizo soup

2011-01-23T18:08:00.013-05:00

I love my wife and my family and i like nothing more than coming home and cooking dinner with them!!!! I am so lucky I just have to pinch myself to believe it! yahoo!!!!! (opening statement written by Jessica, my wife. I had writers block)

Yep, that's how I feel today, lucky guy I am. My day started at the restaurant. After checking in with ourregular Sunday morning breakfast crowd, tasting a new whole grain pancake recipe and writing a new schedule, I packed out 5 gallons of soup. Oliver (our corgi) and I delivered the package to the "Empty Bowls" fund raiser in Springs.

The kitchen air (steamy from a dozen soups coming to a simmer on the stove) hit me in the face as I entered the firehouse door. Several chefs buzzed about tending to the days preparations. Some serious, some casual and chatty.I felt a community service vibe, one that makes everybody a winner. Leading the charge, organizers Joe Realmuto and Bryan Futerman had their sleeves rolled up, big smiles on their faces too. Joe & Bryan, both local chefs initiated this annual event a few years ago to generate funds to purchase seeds and supplies for the greenhouse at the Springs school.

Yesterday Raul and Auggie set up our contribution, a Red lentil & chorizo soup. The following recipe has been modified to serve a family of 5 with some left over for another meal.

3 cups Mirpoix (celery, onion, carrot) diced @ 1/4 inch

1 cup zucchini, diced same size

3 cups red lentils (pink dal)

1 16oz can dice tomato (Muir Glen)

2 cups cooked dark meat turkey (cleaned and chopped)

2 cups white wine

1 lb fresh chorizo, (chopped and cooked through)

1 quart Turkey stock (made from the above mentioned

turkey, chicken works too)

2 teaspoons ground cumin

salt & pepper to taste

1/4 cup cilantro (cleaned and chopped)

Start with the mirpoix in a few tablespoons of fat removed from the top of the turkey stock (or 3 tablespoons of veg. oil) stir over medium heat until soft. Then add the zucchini and stir again.

Add the red lentils and stir again, follow with wine, tomato and stock, stir then cover for 20 minutes. Next, add the roasted turkey and stir, season with salt, pepper and cumin then remove from the stove top, transfer to a container that fits in your fridge and chill overnight.

To serve, start with the soup on medium heat and thencook the chorizo in a separate pan. When the sausage is ready remove as much excess fat as possible and add the sausage to the soup then sprinkle in cilantro if you like. Bring to a boil and serve.

Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, San Francisco

2011-01-17T23:33:00.026-05:00

Mijita jicama and pumpkin seed salad

2011-01-17T22:06:00.016-05:00

Mijita is a straight forward taco bar in the Ferry Building on San Francisco's waterfront, in the shadow of the Bay Bridge, just off the Embarcadero. Colorful, sunny and friendly, this taco bar offers the real thing. There's a comal in the window (handmade tortillas), a few jars of Agua fresca (fresh juices) on ice in the counter and a crisp "ensalada de jicama" on the menu over the grill.

Rebecca and I tried the fish taco (pescado), the pork taco (carnitas) the breakfast standard (chillaquillas) and the jicama salad. All garnished with wonderful flavors, including lime (pescado) pickled carrots (carnitas) and delicious red beans topped with queso fresco (chillaquillas).

The dish that turned my head was the jicama salad. I liked it because it was crisp and cold, tangy and crunchy. But it was missing a little something and that's where I'll take it at the Little Kitchen.

Last summer we created a shrimp and scallop kabob that was marinated in an agave and jalepeno marinade. It was served over a cool salad of jicama, green papaya and cucumber all shredded with the Japanese mandoline. It was a big hit but tough on the salad station. The prep for the salad had to be done prior to opening, had a one night shelf life and was hell to prepare to order when the salad sold out before the shellfish. This new Mijita inspired salad should work to keep the recipe moving forward and help the salad man during service as it won't require shredding 3 different items on the fly. It will also be an extension of the marinade, for the dressing I've suggested making extra so the marinade can be a bi product of the vinaigrette. Once the dressing has been made, remove 1/2 of the solids from the bottom of the jar with a slotted spoon and run in a blender on high with 1/2 cup of agave nectar and 1/4 cup vegetable oil until smooth. Then pour the marinade over skewers covered with shrimp and scallops. Place on a hot grill or grill pan after the shellfish has been in the marinade for 20 minutes.

It's important to point out that the pumpkin seeds at Mijita were great in the salad I had at the dock, at the Little Kitchen we'll substitute toasted butternut squash seeds tossed in ground cumin, white pepper and salt instead as we use lots of butternut squash in the winter months and my team will set up jars of the nuts as the slow months crawl along.

Serves 4
For the salad:
1 quart baby arugula
1 large red grapefruit (sections)
1.5 cups sliced jicama (match stick size)
1/4 cup toasted seeds
2 small avocados (sliced to fan out over the salad)

For the dressing:
2 tablespoons minced ginger
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced jalapeno
2 tablespoons minced mint
4 tablespoons minced red onion
4 tablespoons minced pineapple
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
3/4 cup vegetable oil
salt to taste

Chile Rellenos w/ Shrimp in sweet corn cream

2011-01-09T23:00:00.005-05:00

On return to the Little Kitchen I've had a chance to meet
with Raul and cover my travel notes. This recipe has been
created through our collaboration. One customer returned
on Sunday for lunch, ordering the same dish she enjoyed the
day before.......our new Relleno in sweet corn cream.

Preparing this dish requires several steps including setting
up sofrito rice in advance, consider making the rice for dinner
the night before and setting 1/2 aside for the rellenos.

Take care to choose the biggest poblano peppers (4) you can
find. Start by roasting them in a hot oven after rubbing
each with oil first. Then, after 30 min. place the peppers in a
bowl covered tightly with plastic wrap allow to cool on the
counter. when cool, remove skin first then slice a hole
from stem to tip and remove all seeds.

12 shrimp chopped (16-20 count, shells removed)
1/2 small onion diced fine
2 cloves garlic, diced fine
2 cups sofrito rice(white rice cooked with tomato and
sofrito spices in chicken stock)

Saute the onions & garlic with shrimp. Then mix shrimp
with rice and stuff the peppers. Place the stuffed peppers
on a sheet pan and wrap with foil. Place in a warm oven.

To make the sauce remove kernels from 4 cobs of
corn. Then saute the corn in 3 tablespoons butter
add 1/2 small onion diced fine and 1 carrot diced fine.
After 5 minutes place in a blender with 1 cup heavy

cream, 1/2 cup chicken stock and 1/4 cup white wine.

Season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper

flakes. Run on high until smooth. Pour into a sauce pan,

simmer then serve over the stuffed peppers garnished with
pomegranate seeds.

Ancho Pot Roast

2011-01-08T17:45:00.011-05:00

For years my pot roast has featured stew meat, potatoes, carrots and celery in dark beef stock thickened with roux. It's a recipe that I imagine serves a warming hut at a ski resort in Utah and if memory serves that's where I ate it for lunch (I was a chairlift loader @ Beaver Mountain).

That recipe creates a good stew style pot roast that can be served from a large pot with a ladle from a chow line. This Ancho Pot Roast is different, it's more about the meat and less about the rest. I was up early on New Years morning and had breakfast solo in the "Coastal" restaurant at Shutters on The Beach. When the waiter brought my coffee I asked if I might see the chefs cookbook, "Shutters Summertime" and he was happy to bring it over. This Ancho Pot Roast recipe has been inspired by the "Mexican Pot Roast" recipe in that book.
We've found an audience for this dish for both lunch and dinner at Estia's Little Kitchen, offered with corn tortillas and an avocado salad with queso fresco it serves as a complete meal that requires long cooking time in advance however calls for little more than heat and serve at meal time.

Serves 10

12 lb beef brisket (trim in advance)
4 large Spanish onions, large dice
5 celery stalks, large dice
5 carrots, large dice
1 cup garlic cloves, cut in half
5 jalapeno, stems & seeds removed, quartered
1 cup raisins
2 cups fresh mango, diced
1 can whole peeled tomato (16oz)
6 ancho chiles
1 bottle red wine (750 ml)
1 quart orange juice
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup monteca (or bacon fat)
4 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons cinnamon
1/4 cup fresh oregano (chopped)
4 tablespoons salt

Start with the liquids and chiles in a sauce pan,bring to a boil and reduce to simmer for 30 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree (take care not to cover the top and seal completely, leave the hole open and cover with a kitchen towel).

Pre heat oven to 375.
Season the beef on a cutting board with all dry ingredients.

Place half of the vegetables in a large roasting pan with 4 tablespoons of the monteca, stir over medium flame for 10 minutes. Next, remove the vegetables and place the beef in the pan with remaining monteca, roll all sides of the piece until completely browned (10-15 min). Now add all of the vegetables and the raisins and mango. Be sure to pour any remaining dry ingredients left on the cutting board into the pan, now add the chile sauce. Wrap the roasting pan with foil tightly, sealing the roast for the oven. Place in the oven for 3 hours then turn off the oven and allow the roast to rest as the oven cools for another hour.
Remove from the oven and pull the beef from the pan then strain the stock. Hold the vegetables in one container, the stock in another and place the beef on a tray to chill in the fridge.
When it's time to serve (the following day) remove the fat from the top of the stock and bring it to a simmer in a sauce pan. Then slice the beef into thin strips against the grain. Also bring the vegetables to a simmer on the stove top. Place the sliced beef in the stock to warm.
Plate the Pot Roast with a spoon full of the vegetable and garnish with cilantro. Serve along side warm corn tortillas and a salad of avocado, red onion, thinly sliced romaine, diced red pepper in a and a pinch of queso fresco, squeze lemon and extra virgin olive oil seasoned with cilantro, salt and red chile flakes.

Shutters on the Beach, Santa Monica

2011-01-07T15:09:00.002-05:00

The perfect answer to the age old question "What to do on New Years?". Three nights at Shutters On The Beach in Santa Monica. My favorite meal was around the Corner at Cafe Cora. The tiny spot is fast, clean and efficent in the LA way, cool and contemperary.Fresh citrus juice, good hot coffee and ranch eggs. 12 seats insideand another 30 under a tent.
We also enjoyed a few dinners at Coastal in the Shutters complex.Best dish here was a Rigatoni Ragout. The space is well designedfor the ample crowd that rolls through it, just off the beach. They alsooffer a wonderful vegetable breakfast skillet in a spicy tomato saucewith eggplant, topped with eggs and an herbed goat cheese crouton.

Finally, the lemonade at Dog Stick, just off the Santa Monica peir.Pass on the dog but refresh w. the Lemonade, really darn good.

Baja California, December '10, Colin's random images

2010-12-29T13:25:00.023-05:00

Zoetry, Casa Del Mar, Los Cabos

2010-12-29T12:54:00.002-05:00

This seaside resort features a dining area on the beach.

They set the tables around a firepit. Excellent service

including blankets to wrap up in if you get cold.

After 5 nights of tortillas, tamales and salsas it was nice to

find a simple roasted chicken over sweet corn and poblanos.

The key to this dish was it's rich, dark chicken sauce.

I also like the fact that the chef chose not to add starch to

the plate beyond roasted corn kernals. Another nice touch,

grilled portabello mushrooms.

They served the breast with a pin bone in, seared then finished

in the oven, the leg was on the bone, something we will remove

at the Little Kitchen. It'll be easier for the guest to eat without.

My daughter was quick to remind me, she prefers chicken off

the bone. Instead of a grilled mushroom top, we'll stuff the leg

with a combination of "cambry onions" (scallions) and diced

mushrooms.

For the sauce we'll start with roasted chicken bones, mirpoix and

a few tablespoons of tomato paste. Simmer in chicken stock for

an hour then strain, add red wine and reduce for another hour over

medium flame. season with salt, pepper and herbs and then

refrigerate over night. Before service skim the fat and reduce until

it's thick enough to hold the back of a spoon.

The roasted corn should be added to a few tablespoons of chopped

scallions softened in butter and a few tablespoons of diced poblano

peppers. Then, when the chicken is removed from the oven, plate

the corn/ pepper mix first, top with a piece of breast meat and a

stuffed leg, then finish the chicken with sauce.

El Fagon, Taqueria

2010-12-29T11:26:00.003-05:00

San Jose is the first village south of Cabo San Lucas near the Sea of Cortez. The centro, or town center is full of restaurants that share a Mexican flavor and silver shops, ice cream parlors, gift shops the like. Very colorful, sprinkled with tradition.

We found what we were looking for a few blocks

away, near the "freeway" in a Taqueria call El Fagon.

The menu is posted on a large wall opposite the open

kitchen. As you sit down a server approaches the table

with a traditional plate filled with salsas and a smooth

buttery guacamole. We discussed the papas de arrachera,

she expained(through our guide Rilando) that they were

baked potatoes filled with braised beef, carrots, onions

and cheese. The wall also offered Papas de cameron, and

adobada (shrimp and pork) so we tried one of each.

The potatoes are a perfect addition to my menu @ Estia's

Little Kitchen because they feature ingredients that are already

in our pantry. At El Fagon, the pre baked potatoes are sliced

in half, topped with about 2 tablespoons of butter then stuffed

with a combination of protien and vegetables. In the shrimp

potato they used carrots, onions and mushrooms, followed

by a heavy portion of white (jack?) cheese. The pork was a bit more

flavor packed with jalepeno pepper, onions, mint and pinapple,

again set up with lots of butter and cheese. The beef version,

diced bits of braised flank steak with onions and carrot, butter

and cheese. Fianlly each potaoto was wrapped tightly in foil leaving

the cheesy top exposed and finished in the oven for a few minutes.

This is a quick pick up for the kitchen because all of the ingredients

are pre cooked and stuffed in the potato warm, just needing time for

the cheese to melt.

For the Little Kitchen menu, I'm envisioning a lighter version.

We will try removing 1/2 of the potato and adding the pre baked product

to our home fries. Then, with a lighter baked potato shell we'll add

fillings that are brought together in a saute pan to order, each including

a spicier version with cilantro, mint, garlic and pepper. Then to top it

off we'll add a dusting of queso fresco or feta cheese. The potato will

go under the broiler for a minute then into a bowl on top of a small salad

of greens and our Mexican cole slaw which is prepared in advance with

lots of red onoin, tomato, cilantro, pepper, olive oil and lime juice.

I think we'll call it the El Fagon Papas salad. A special that will offer a

different protien stuffing on different days.

La Frida, Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach

2010-12-27T23:43:00.004-05:00

Pueblo Bonito, Sunset Beach is a primier resort

and La Frida, it's top dining room offers Cabo's

primier table. Every detail is exquisit, the rolling

tableside bar service is unique and full service.

When we asked for lemonade he prepared a perfect

glass with fresh lemon juice, simple syrup and

sparkling water.

The amuse was amazing. A chicken mole seved in

a twisted spoon, one bite packed with flavor and

a chicken breast shard that melted in the mouth.

For starters we enjoyed a tortilla soup with a nest

of corn totilla strips like I've never seen. The black

bean soup, perfectly seasoned was satisfying and full

flavored. We also shared a beet salad with garden

fresh greens and catija cheese, on the plate a roasted

beet puree that doubled as another layer of the fine

sherry vinaigrette.

My youngest daughter chose the New York steak

which came centered on a tamale, removed

from it's husk and crisped on its edges. The plate was

garnished with carmelized ripe plantains and finished

with a rich, red wine natural. Finally topping the

perfectly cooked USDA prime steak a braised

shallot and grilled fennel.

The 2 older girls enjoyed the chefs paella, its rice

came in a cast iron "Staub" pot, including octopus

with peas and carrots. Separate on a side plate they

enjoyed shrimp, chicken and chorizo. An interesting

approach for a dish that sometimes gets overwhelmed

with ingredients.

Finally dessert choices included tres leche cake, molten

chocolate cake and choroz with chocolate ice cream. All

perfectly balance and portioned so not a bite was left behind.

We found the service, food and decor at La Frida to exceed

every expecation. Just as the Sunset Beach resorts' grounds

and staff have done during our 4 night stay.

Fish Tacos, Tequila Sunrise Restaurant, Todos Santos

2010-12-27T20:05:00.003-05:00

Yellow tail, grilled and served over corn tortillas.

That's how Manuel started to discribe his fish taco

presentation at "Teqila Sunrise". He had me there,

then he went on to discribe the garlic and herb

marmalade that makes these tacos so perfect.

Manuel is the owner of the Tequila Sunrise restaurant

in Todos Santos, on Baja Sur Mexico. The son of an

Italian father and Mexican mother he has arranged

his local/organic offerings to represent both traditions.

In the case of this fish taco, he grills the fish simply on

a flat top before transfering it to plated, warm corn tortillas.

What makes it special is what I call a garlic marmalade.

Surprised at how mild the garlic was I asked him if it was

a special variety and he explained the trick. The garlic

is diced and combined with diced chili (poblano pepper)

red pepper, basil, oregano and parsley all organic and

purchased from his freinds in Todos Santos.

Once all of the ingredients are combined they're covered

with olive oil and stored in a cool/dark room for 30 days.

Then, when orders come in the chef strains the "marmalade"

at room temp and spreads it over the fish.

Another item that enhances his plates is a flavorful organic

brown rice. He follows an Italian technique that involves

mixing dry rice with balsamic and olive oil in advance of the

cooking process. When the rice is cooked, they begin with

an aromatic blend of finely diced carrot, onion and zucchini

in the pan over medium heat until soft then the rice is added

follwed by twice as much chicken stock.

Tequila Sunrise, Todos Santos, Baja Sur

2010-12-27T19:40:00.004-05:00

Ok, we loved Cabo then came Todos Santos.

Layed back, quiet, friendly another reason to

book our next trip to Baja ASAP.

"Tequila Sunrise" on the main drag in Todos Santos

came highly recommended and today we found out

why. Not only did the owner Manuel handle our table,

he let my kids write thier names on the walls (only

requiring a promise to return).

I loved the way they did the thier "Arnold Palmer",

an ice filled 16oz pilsner glass filled 1/2 way with

black tea and topped with a lemonade smoothie

(blended lemonade, mint and ice) like a floater.

They also had an amazing "Queso Fondido" a

combination of Jack, cheddar, mozarella and provole

cheeses in a bowl, hot and stringy topped with chorizo.

The Tequila Sunrise version is served with grilled

flour tortillas, combined with a little guacamole and

salsa a hungry traveler would need little else.

La Fonda, Cabo San Lucas

2010-12-26T21:26:00.001-05:00

'This little place is made with a lot of heart...

a real Mexican kitchen." That's what it says on

top of the menu and it's true.

Outstanding "Mole de la Casa" for anyone

who wonders how it should be served in the

authentic approach. They offer it with chicken

or pork. We chose chicken, a succulent breast

off the bone smothered with a black, very

complex sauce, dusted with sesame seeds.

Another choice featured perfectly braised

pork in a "Pipan Verde Mole", a heady pumpkin

seed enhanced sauce.

We learned an important rule as it relates to

dining at La Fonda. Choose either a variety

of starters to share (empanaditas, queso fondido,

tostadas & tacos) or the substantial entrees, we

did both and it was overwhelming. The main plates

are huge.

Everything is fresh and made with care. Service is

spot on and the father and son who stroll from

table to table singing with guitar in hand make

La Fonda spledid.

This is a nieghborhood restaurant that sets a

high bar, the menu is huge and needs to be navigated

carefully.

Chile Rellanos

2010-12-25T13:04:00.006-05:00

On my first evening in Cabo San Lucas I enjoyed a

splendid chile rellanos at Mi Casa, under a thatched

roof on a hand painted table in a room full of celebration.

It was Christmas Eve.

The dish was pleasing to me, it featured one perfectly

presented, delicious poblano chile filled with pork and

beef. I was amazed at how the pepper retained its firm

texture and yet was peeled of all its skin and cleaned

of every seed. To finish the dish the chef poured

a sweet corn cream sauce over the stuffed pepper

and garnished it with a scatter of pomegranate seeds.

When returning to my kitchen in Sag Harbor I intend

to recreate this dish following the Mi Casa theme, I find

the idea of a pepper roasted not fried very appealing.

4 poblano peppers, charred over open flame then finished

in a steel bowl, cover w/ platic wrap and set aside.

Seed and peel carefully when cool.

1/2 pound pulled pork. From a shank braised in chicken

stock w/ onions and chiles until soft.

1/2 pound ground beef, browned with 1 small finely diced

onion until cooked through. Then stir in 2 tablespoons

of tomato paste

Remove any excess fat from beef, combine with pork and

season with 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon

ground cumin, salt and black pepper to taste.

Allow the mixture to cool and stuff peppers in advance.

Cover with plastic and hold cold until service.

For sauce, roast 3 ears of sweet corn @ 350 for 30 min.

then remove the kernals from the cobs. Make stock

by simmering the cobs in 2 cups chicken stock w/ 1 jalepeno,

1 cup of softened mirpoix (dice celery, onion and carrot saute

in butter) & 1 teaspoon salt for 30 minutes. Strain and cool.

For service, place the stuffed peppers in a roasting pan and

warm in a pre heated 350 oven until 120 in the center. Add

1/2 cup of corn stock to the pan to keep the peppers hydrated.

Place the corn kernals in a blender with 1/2 cup of plain yogurt,

1/2 cup heavy cream, 1/2 cup corn stock, 2 tablespoons agave

necter and 2 tablespoons roasted garlic puree. Bring together

at high speed until smooth then place in a sauce pan and simmer

until warm. Add 2 tablespoons of chopped cilantro just prior to

finishing the dish.

Place one Stuffed pepper in the center of each plate and pour

warm sauce over each. Then finish by sprinkling 3 tablespoons

of pomegranate seed over each pepper.

Mi Casa, Cabo San Lucas

2010-12-25T12:27:00.003-05:00

Christmas eve dinner @ Mi Casa was fantastic.

The bar area was quiet when we arrived @ 7:00pm.

Entering through the gift shop/ tequila emporium

is something to behold. Settling in at table we realized

that this is a serious restaurant with food and service

in mind. Every dish was spectacular, real food, handmade,

locally grown. When the band (4 pc) stopped at our table

to entertain us and the room, they stayed just long enough

to make our Mi Casa experience special.

On ordering we explained that it was our intention to

make the church on time for Christmas eve service.

The church is 1/2 a block away. Every minute for the

next hour was perfect. The soup "de Tia" (chicken stock

and vegetables) may well have been prepared by

someones favorite aunt, a splendidly simple chicken soup.

Quesadillas, borne from a comal in the corner where

someone elses aunt works all night were extraordinary.

The combinaion of handmade corn tortilla, Mexican cheese

and mild chorizo was again perfect. We also started with

a salad of local greens, corn and grilled vegetables, finished

with thinly sliced crisp corn tortillas in a pineapple, jalepeno

and celantro dressing. Our table was quiet, the children

praised every bite.

Entrees were splendind too. An achiote rubbed chicken breast

served with rice, beans and guacamole sounded routine....perfectly

turned out. The chili relleno in sweet corn cream and pomegranate

garnish, extraordinary and Jessica's tortilla soup had a touch

of spice and all the sweetness of the locally made crema.

Just as we finished the wait staff cleared, delivered strong coffee

and a check leaving pleanty of time for our family to make the

Christmas eve ceramony. As we left the crowd flowed through

the bar and out the door. All 6 of Mi Casa's diningrooms had

filled and the staff still had time to wish us well and enjoy or

holiday visit.

It was an experience my children will never forget. The flavors

of our first night in Mexico balanced by song and prayer with a

community of loving souls.

Harvest Season Potato Soup

2010-10-05T14:14:00.009-04:00

Harvest season came early this year. With that in mind a late

September event seemed appropriate to Roman Roth when

East End Hospice asked him to host a fund raiser on the Wolffer

Estate (back in February). Generally vineyard hands in

Bridgehampton start getting busy in the first week of October,

this year was different. Due to continuous warm, sunny days in August

and September the grapes were ready for thier bins ahead of schedule.

As a result Romans' plate was full on the last Saturady in September

with a full team in the vineyards (finishing up the harvest) and 1200

guests in a tent sampling food and wine from our regions best chefs

and vineyards.

The day they chose was perfect, 75 degrees and blue skies with a soft

wind blowing from the south across the vineyard. Our Estia's Little

Kitchen table was at the western end of the circus size tent, the

display told a story of locally harvest ingredients. A wooden box

from Christian Wolffer's 2001 Premier Cru was filled with carrots,

leeks, celery root and potatoes from the Foster farm. On top of the

box, a framed photo of the 20lb bluefish that I caught off Montauk

Point a year earlier. The table top was covered with large paper

potato bags featuring a "Tiger" logo from the Foster farm a Sagaponack

family run farm, growing potatoes for over 100 years. Our message was

in keeping with the events mission, local farm/dock to table.

The potato soup was served cold in 2 oz. sampling spoons, finished

with a pinch of smoked bluefish from my pal Eric at FishHampton.

For 3 hours my helpers Virginia and Christina filled and finished

the spoons while I explained to following recipe to all who asked.

1 quart potatoes (peel and dice into 1/2 inch cubes)

1/2 quart carrots (peel and dice into 1/2 inch cubes)

1/2 quart celery root (peel and dice into 1/4 inch cubes)

1 quart of leeks, remove greens and root, dice into 1/2 inch pieces

2 ripe green apples

2 quarts chicken stock

2 cups heavy cream

2 cups plain greek yogurt

1 cup Wolffer rose

1/2 pound smoked bluefish

1/2 bunch chervil or parsley

All veg should be soaked in cold water and drained twice to ensure

a clean product.

Place the potatoes in a large pot filled 1/2 way with warm water,

place on high heat and bring to a boil for 10 minutes. They should

be softening. Drain, place in cold water and chill.

Place the carrots, celery root and leeks in separate roasting pans

and add 2 cups of chicken stock, 1/2 cup buttter and 2 tablespoons

salt to each pan. The apples can go in a smaller pan with a 1/4 cup

of water Then roast all at 350 covered w/ foil for 2 hours. Remove

from oven, remove foil and chill.

When the vegetables have cooled, pass each batch through a food mill

and combine all in a large pot on the stove over medium heat. Bring

to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper

then remove and chill at 4 inches deep in a large shallow pan.

To serve, fill each bowl with soup then shred smoked bluefish sparingly

over each. Garnish with a sprig of chervil or parsley.

Extra soup can be frozen for future use. It makes a good base for fish dishes

when combined in a blender with pesto and clam juice. If smoked bluefish

is not available, try smoked striped bass or and other smoked firm white fish.

Quail Hill Farm, Common Table Dinner 8/28/10

2010-09-01T18:52:00.005-04:00

As the sun began to sink in the sky to the west of Quail Hills'

apple orchard the activity around our "Common Table" began

to stir. The table was set for 180, forks and knives in place,

wine glasses shining in the afternoon light, a burlap table cloth

in place lay flat on the surface that ran the length of a football field.

My family arrived just in time to set their plates at the westeern

end of the table, our guests Cinnie and Julia May gazed across the

table into the orchard and began to ask questions about what was

in store for this special evening.

The nights menu was to be prepared by 5 chefs from some of the

areas busiest kitchens. A bouillabaise would be presented by

Kevin Penner, Coq au Vin from Brian Futterman, bite size

Croque Monsuire as Joesph Realmuto imagined it, James Carpenter

arranged a wonderful Charcouterie and Cheese plate and my Shitake

Mushroom Stuffed Pork Loin complimented the main courses.

The menu was borne from a meeting held in May (I attended via

phone) our French Country theme was agreed upon quickly. A few

days later we all recieved a list of dishes that had been suggested

in the meeting, I choose the pork quickly feeling it would be easiest

set up in The Little Kitchen prep area and roasted on site.

As the weeks passed we heard from Hilary Leff occasionally with an

eye on detail and an understanding that busy chefs have little time

to discuss details for a fund raiser twice. The request for vegetables

from Scott Chasky at the Farm came a few weeks before and all of

the sudden it was time to source the pig. In the last week of August

I spend a good deal of time talking with farmers, when I saw my

nieghbor Dale from a farm down the street from my Little Kitchen

I asked him, he put me in touch with Art Ludlow from the Mecox

Dairy. On Wednesday morning a local pig, raised on dairy farm

bi products was slaughtered, boned out and chilled for delivery to

my kichen door.

Early on Saturday morning the pork prep began, Virginia had come

from Manhattan to help, her first effort invloved cleaning a dozen

leeks. She removed the green tops and the roots, split them once

then again from top to bottom, finally chopping the leeks into

fingernail size pieces. Next the leeks are soaked in cold water,

swirled because leeks are dirty, dirty enough to re fresh the

water and swirl again. Then she peeled 3 dozen carrots and diced

them to mix with the leeks and 2 cases of sliced shitake mushroom

tops on the flat top stirring until the soften. Season with salt,

pepper and a pinch of cumin. Keep in mind, this recipe was for

40 pounds of pork. Finally we spread the shitake, leek mixture

on sheet pans and then mixed in 2 dozen ripe, diced peaches then

placed them on the racks in our fridge to cool.

To stuff the pork we placed the sides of pig on a set of cutting boards.

Next step required portioning out 5lb roasts and preparing them for

stuffing by slipping the knife between the meat and pork fat where

ever possible and slicing the roasts so that each can be stuffed and

tied off.

To fill the roast we placed as much of the stuffing as possible on each

prepared cut and then tied them off. Finally roll and tie each peice

and then rub with a combination of equal parts of kosher salt and

brown sugar with a pinch of "all spice". The stuffed roasts should be

placed on a roasting pan over remaining stuffing and wrapped with foil.

Allow to rest for a few hours at room temperature then place in a 375

oven and roast for 1.5 hours or until the center registers 145 on your

meat thermometer.

To serve, slice into 1/2 inch pieces and top with extra stuffing and a

drip of the pan juices.

Juicy Naam vegetarian tasting, dish #3

2009-11-12T17:10:00.004-05:00

As the fall season sets in, creative programing becomes standard practice here at The Little Kitchen. I reach out to those who have a following in the food business but need a room to touch the customer. In this case the lovely Giulianna Torre from East Hamptons' Juicy Naam has agreed to team up with me. We've created a vegetarian tasting menu supported by wine pairings from the Heller Estate, an organic winery and vineyard that's been making wine in Carmel Valley California organically for over 30 years.

Last month, as the leaves began to turn we sat down and discussed our goal of creating a menu specific to vegetables and grains. During our chat, as we were bouncing ideas for quinoa around, Giulianna mentioned a memorable dish that she enjoyed in Manhattan, back in September at The Waverly Inn. She went on to describe a combination of organic red quinoa and diced vegetables with a sensuous green curry sauce, "but how to prepare it? What were the main ingredients?" I asked.

As it turned out she was so swept away by the dish that documenting the method never crossed her mind. Luck has it that the chef at Manhattans' hottest ticket (The Waverly Inn), John Delucie, happens to be a friend so I sent him an email requesting clues. His response was swift and simple. With his notes and my team, the following recipe has been organized from the stoves at Estia's Little Kitchen for service this weekend.

The phone is ringing, tables are booking up and it looks like creative programming is coming to the rescue. If wish lists came true I'd like to have Henry Heller and John Delucie in the house too. Regardless, I'll be happy with smiling customers and my new pal Giulianna.

Stage 1:

Soak 2 cups Organic Red Quinoa in 3 cups of water for at least 4 hours, over nightis best.
1 butternut squash peeled, dice the stem and core the base, slice the base into 4 rounds
place rounds on a roasting pan in 1/2 inch of water and roast for 30 minutes @ 350.
2 large red peppers, toss with olive oil and roast with the squash in a separate pan.
Remove from the oven when completely soft and place in a steel bowl covered w/ plastic wrap.
1 carrot, diced into pieces the same size as the squash
1 leek, diced the rinsed until clean in cold water.
1 large portabello mushroom top, diced
For service remove peppers from the bowl, skin and seed them.
Be sure to reserve the liquid for the Quinoa.
Next slice the peppers into 4 square pieces of equal size.
4 garlic cloves, diced
8 shallots, diced
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 ounces coconut milk
3 tablespoons green curry paste
Bring the shallots and garlic to a sizzle w/ oil over medium heat, when soft add the coconut milk then simmer. Combine with curry paste in a blender at high speed.
In a sauce pan soften the diced squash, mushrooms and leeks then add the drained quinoa and stir. Next, add all of the pepper liquid followed by 2 cups warm water, season with salt and stir.
Finally reheat the butternut squash rounds and the pepper squares on an oiled sheet pan.
Assemble the dish on warm plates by filling the squash rounds with hot quinoa, top with the pepper squares and pour the curry sauce around as you like.

BRAISED CHILI-RUBBED LAMB SHANKS

2009-10-16T13:46:00.003-04:00

Cooking for a living "is hardly glamorous" as Peter Sherwood suggests in his recent Cookingvillage.com piece, Celebrity Bites. And there are times—especially when I find myself slaving over a hot stove during the height of a dinner rush—I have to agree. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be a labor of love, or extremely rewarding in the end. And, sometimes, the most unglamorous cooking methods yield the sexiest dishes.

Being in charge of the menus at my restaurants gives me a great deal of freedom, taking me out of the kitchen (with its attendant hot stove) to explore and taste. Most often, inspiration comes to me from cookbooks. When I’m looking for juice, I often find myself walking the racks of used bookstores; the tomes that usually catch my eye offer more stories than they do recipes, more process than precision. My favorites share tales of kitchen lore, and Richard Olney’s biography, Reflections, is at the top of the heap. Olney tackles the subject of braising in the book, instructing the reader on the art of making a good daube. According to the author a daube—or a traditional French beef dish—must have at least three days between leaving the butcher’s shop and hitting the plate. Day one involves seasoning and browning in a bit of lard surrounded by aromatic vegetables. A stock is then added, and the whole thing is brought to a simmer before being covered and tossed into an oven for several hours at 350 degrees. After the requisite time as passed, the dish is removed from the oven and the meat removed from the pan. The stock is strained and then poured over the meat. And then the meat and stock are stashed in the back of a fridge, where it will sit and soften for the next 24 hours. On day two, the meat is removed from the fridge and the fat is skimmed from the top (talk about unglamorous). As a reward, the cook can now open a bottle of red and add as much as he feels he wants to share with the stock to it before tucking into the vino himself. The meat is returned to braise in the oven for the second time, again at 350 degrees. Two hours later it’s removed again and—we’re not even close to done here—returned again to the depths of the chiller until ready to serve. When service approaches on the third day, the meat is removed, the fat once again skimmed and the whole pot is brought to a simmer on the stovetop. A bit of salt and pepper are added—as well as some fresh herbs—and then, 72 hours later, it’s ready to be eaten. Is the above process glamorous? Hardly. But the dish—glistening under a rich sauce and mouth-wateringly fragrant—certainly is. To make the dish successful, you’ve got to plan ahead. This is not just my advice, but Olney’s too—and it’s one that I’ve found works well for me. It allows me time to step out of the kitchen and listen to my customers’ thoughts on the meals before them. Often, their thoughts turn to praise—something I’m always eager to hear. After all, some of us got into the biz for the glamour of it all.

Chili Rubbed Lamb Shanks w/ Butternut Squash Puree & Sauteed Swiss Chard
serves 4

2 "deluxe" lamb shanks (2-3 lb ea. If you can’t get shanks that big, just get as many as it takes to reach about 6 lbs)
2 dried guajillo chilies, seeded and pureed in a coffee grinder (if you can’t find guajillo’s, substitute 4 tablespoons of chili powder)
2 tablespoons of smoked paprika
2 tablespoons of garlic powder
1/4 cup reserved bacon fat or crisco
2 large onions, peeled & chopped
4 carrots, peeled and chopped
4 celery stalks, chopped
1 quart chicken stock
1 small can of tomato paste
12 oz. red wine
1/2 bunch parsley, stems removed and chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro, stems removed and chopped
1/2 bunch marjoram, stems removed and chopped

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Rinse the lamb shanks then pat it dry. Mix the chili powder, paprika, and garlic powder together, then rub the shanks all over with the seasoning.
2. In a large skillet over medium/high heat bring the oil to temperature, then add the seasoned shanks to the pan and brown them all over. Now add the vegetables and continue to stir until soft.
3. Reduce the heat to medium, and then add the chicken stock and tomato paste to the pan. When the mixture comes to a simmer, cover the dish and place it in the oven for two hours.
4. After two hours have elapsed, remove the pan from the oven. Next, remove the shanks from the pan and place them in a bowl. Strain the stock over the bowl, so that only stock goes in with the shanks. Compost the refuse if possible and place the shanks in the stock in the refrigerator overnight.
5. On Day 2, remove the shanks from the cooler and skim the fat off the top. Preheat your oven to 350, again. Place the stock and shank back in a small braising pan and bring to a simmer on the stovetop. While that comes to a simmer, clean your herbs from the stems and set the herbs aside for the next day. Add the wine and the herb stems to the braising pan to infuse the stock.
6. Place the dish in the oven for another two hours. When two hours have passed, remove the shanks to the bowl and strain the stock over it as you did before. Cover and chill in the fridge once more.
7. Finally, Day 3! Remove the shanks from the fridge and skim the fat from the top again. Put stock into the braising pan and bring to a simmer over medium high heat on the stovetop to reduce the stock by half. While the stock simmers, place the shanks on the cutting board and carefully pull the meat from the bone.
8. When the stock has been reduced, place the lamb meat into the stock until warmed through. Just before serving, taste and add extra salt if needed. Add the chopped herb, and serve.
Cooks note: To each plate, I like to add ½ cup of steamed spinach seasoned with sea salt as well as ½ cup of roasted butternut squash puree seasoned with butter and sea salt. Ideally, I like to arrange the shards of meat like spikes between the sides, before drizzling the sauce all over.

Apple and Camembert Harvest Salad

2009-10-05T21:00:00.011-04:00

A period sits at the end of my 2009 season, regularMonday afternoon trips to Manhattan commence. Today I chose to drive, not my normal choice as I find the Jitney far more productive, faster, safer and more "footprint friendly". However it is my duty to return Oliver (corgi) to his "regular" routine as a Central Park tree sniffer.

After a productive lunch shift @ The Little Kitchen we set off on the back roads, as the turn onto North Sea Mecox came into view it occurred to me that the Islands' best apples were on sale on the east side of the triangle. I've been told that the trees on this triangle are special but nevermade time to stop, today was the day for a taste (and for Ollie a last pee) before hitting the LIE.

As we approached I noticed that the table was full and the proprietor on site, she was overjoyed with Oliver & we made friends quickly. I was looking for 2 specific apples, one soft for baking and one crisp and sweet for a matchstix cut that would compliment a sharp cheddar sliced the same way.

When I asked she smiled and told me that it had been a few years since she had taken a bite of her apples,"Hard to keep track with so few teeth". The transaction was easy, she had a mixed bag that offered enough for me to make my own choice. It also reminded me how things should be, teach yourself then make your own decisions. A crisp, sweet apple tells it's own story, a good baker will be softer, rounder and less assertive on the first bite. In time, if you live near the trees you'll know which one produces the best results from an oven or on the breakfast table. If you don't know the tree let the first bite guide the menu.

Apple and Camembert Harvest Salad

serves 4

1 good baking apple
1 crisp sweet apple
1 small wheel camembert
1 small piece sharp white cheddar
10 stems flat leaf parsley
1 lemon
1/4 cup apple cider
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Remove the core from the apple, don't peel it,but remove the core with a thin knife top to bottom. Place the apple on a small baking sheet and pour 1/2 cup of water on the sheet then wrap with foil.Place in the oven @ 400 for 25 min. or until soft butstill firm. Remove and chill.

Just prior to service slice the crisp apple into thin match sticks and place in a bowl. Then slice the same amount of cheddar to the same size and combine.

Remove the baked apple from the fridge and sliceit into thin wedges, then place a slice of camemberton each plate. Top each slice of cheese with a quartetod baked apple slices and then top the apple slices with a smaller piece of cheese (from the rind cut).

On the opposite side of the plate create a pile (2 tablespoons)of the crisp apple/ cheddar matchstix. Garnish with parsley stems and touch the parsley with drops of vinaigrette.

To make Vinaigrette combine the juice of 1 lemon with apple cider and olive oil, pour into a squeeze bottle and shake.You'll have lot of extra apple cider vinaigrette so hold itcold for your next fall salad.

East End Linguine w/ striped bass and clams

2009-10-03T18:33:00.005-04:00

Linguine and clams, they go together like peanut butter shares white bread with jelly. My challenge this week was to introduce a dish that presented what I think is the best our East End fall harvest has to offer.

Of course striped bass has to share top billing, the migration is in full swing. Steamed top neck clams play an important supporting role, primarily because of the wonderful broth that results,as the clams steam in a pool of shallot infused chardonnay. For color I turn to Quail Hill farm for a mixture of peppers, one red bell and one yellow habinaro, the later provides essential heat, use caution when handling and take care dicing both fine. Finally a clove of garlic or 2 and a dusting of fresh parsley, harvested from the nearest herb box.

Since the editors of Edible East End have requested dishes that are as locally sourced as possible, we turned to the Crescent Duck Farm in Cutchouge on Long Island's North Fork, about 15 miles west (as the crow flies). The linguine is made in house with a mixture of semolina flour, durum flour, duck eggs and water.

Prior to service the first task requires a lidded pot large enough to accommodate all of the clams (rinsed ahead of time). Begin on a medium flame with1/2 of the oil and all of the shallots, when the shallots have softened add the clams and then the wine. Cover and steam until all of the clams have opened. Then remove the clams from their shells, strain the broth and store together in the refrigerator until service.

When cooking the pasta it's important to begin with water that's at a rolling boil, salted well.Fresh pasta cooks quickly so prior to placing the pasta in the water bring a sauce pan to temperature over a high flame, add the oil and garlic, as the garlic begins to spit add the clam juice and then the bits and pieces of bass, finally add the chopped clams and peppers,now reduce the flame to low.

In the pasta pot, water boiling like a crazy, drop the pasta in and stir. After 1 and a half minutes the pasta should be removed with tongs and transferred to the clam/ bass mixture straight away. Stir and plate. Then dust with parsley and serve.

To serve 4 adults:

1 lb fresh linguine

18-24 top neck clams

1/2 lb striped bass (diced into small pieces)

1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced fine

1 small habinero chili, steamed and seeded diced fine

2 large cloves garlic, sliced

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 cup chardonnay

4 shallots, chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

Bluefish Tostadas

2009-09-14T19:25:00.007-04:00

As a rule a flyguide off Montauk seeks birds in order to find Bluefish, as the fish push the bait to the surface, terns & gulls flock and feed from above signaling the schools position for miles around. The trick to hooking Blue fish today was in the countdown, after a good cast from the bow of Capt. Brian's 21 foot boat the countdown began, after reaching 30 it was time to strip the line. The birds signaled us in to a spot 2 miles of the cliff edged beaches west of the point. It was Brian's fish finder that suggested we remain, and succeed for 3 hours catching Bluefish up to 12 pounds.

This dish is the result of our summer seasons progress, the tomatoes are ripe and brilliant, peppers abound, cabbage is on the stand in several different varieties and the Bluefish are fat and feisty.

Bluefish Tostadas
1 lb fresh bluefish filet, skin on
1 red onion, sliced thin
2 jalepeno chilies, seeded and diced
2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoon lime juice
salt
12 corn tortillas

Bring the oven to 400 degrees and place the fish filets skin side down on a baking sheet. In a skillet bring the oil to heat over a medium flame then add the chilies and onion, as they soften season the fish with salt then add the lime juice to the pan, stir and spoon the contents of thepan over the filets. Now place in the oven for 15 minutes.

2 cups napa or savoy cabbage, sliced thin
1/2 red onion, sliced thin
2 tablespoons lime juice
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
15 cilantro leaves, chopped
1 avocado diced
1 ripe tomato, diced
pinch of salt

Combine all in a bowl and toss then plate on warm tortillas,top with bluefish and serve. Be sure to include the roasted onions and peppers on the fish servings. Garnish with lime.

BBQ ribs are best prepared as you make the sauce

2009-06-10T16:18:00.000-04:00

Pork Ribs 9 sides
Mirpoix 1 quart
Chicken stock 2 gallons
White wine 1 quart
Salt pepper
Jalipeno 3 pc

Two weeks ago Scot Chasky gave me a packet of red runner beans. The germination rate was about 60 percent at The Lodge, 100 percent at The Litltle Kitchen. Each seedling has structure to reach out to, I can see the first shoots coming off the stem surrounded by big heart shaped leaves. Across from the beans each garden sports garlic shoots that are reaching for the sky, days away from opening, slowly curling from the roots that swell under the surface.

Family dinner tonight included a steamed Jasmine rice, sautéed broccoli with ginger, garlic and peppers and grilled chicken in a similar marinade. The chicken breast was grilled over a new flame because of time instead of my usual routine of throwing it on a pre heated grill. The chicken was in the marinade for 30 minutes prior to grilling.

For the Similar Marinade:

8 cloves of garlic
1 large knob of garlic, peeled and chopped (1/4 cup)
1 red pepper, seeds and stem removed
1/2 cup blended oil
¼ cup lime juice

Oyster mushrooms carmalized w/ garlic scapes over spring greens

2009-06-08T20:22:00.007-04:00

What's real, what isn't? The mushroom man, he's real. His name is Daveand the mushrooms he sell taste awesome. I first met Dave at the Little Kitchen a few years ago. It was a Sunday morning in November, he chose the BuffaloSteak and Eggs for breakfast. The dish made him happy and he shared that with me.

Since that time, I've seen Dave at the farmers market in Sag Harbor. His offerings are exotic, many of which come from his production. Never stopped to buy, why I'm not sure. Perhaps it's just a barrier that he had to break and he did. Last Friday, after the market day had passed and I was breaking down my pasta stand, I found a brown paper bag. The Mushroom Man had shared his oyster mushrooms with me. This is a gesture that to me suggests a greeting, a welcome to the club of sorts.

Tonight for dinner the feature was oyster mushrooms, first tossed in equal parts of reduced balsamic vinegar, soy sauce and olive oil then caramelized in a cast iron skilletwith thinly sliced garlic scapes.

The mushrooms meaty flavor compliments a roughly chopped salad of pea sprouts,spring spinach and arugula. Not only did this meal celebrate the gift of Dave's oyster mushrooms it also defined the first harvest at Quail Hill. On SaturdayWhittier joined me in the lower gardens, snipping spinach then arugula, followedby a walk up to the field east of the apple orchard in search of pea shoots.
The result needs no dressing, simply place the cleaned, chopped spring greens ineach bowl and top with equal parts of caramelized oyster mushrooms, be sure topour any remaining liquid over the mushrooms, serve hot.
To serve 4 as a starter:
4 cups chopped fresh oyster mushrooms
2 cups fresh cleaned arugula
2 cups fresh spring spinach
1 bunch pea shoots, remove thick stems
4 tablespoons reduced balsamic vinegar
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic scapes, sliced into thin pieces
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
Start with vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet over medium heat, add garlic scapes and stir for 3 minutes then add the chopped mushrooms after they've been tossed with the olive oil, vinegar and soy. Turn up the heat and stir often, when the mushrooms have caramelized transfer them to the bowls filled with greens and serve.

Wolffer Memorial: Rooster Ragu

2009-04-23T16:39:00.010-04:00

The room was full of friends and family celebrating the life of Christian Wolffer, the gentleman farmer who established the stables, vineyards and winery at the Wolffer Estate in Sagaponack New York. On Sunday afternoon, as a cool breeze chased the crowd into Christian's tasting room his son Marc stood on the stage, holding his glass up to toast his father. Before his toast Marc told the story of how his sisters joined him in his fathers' bedroom just days after the sad funeral in January, they addressed his socks drawer first. Marc is proud to tell the story of how his pop had no grey or black socks, only the colors of a rainbow, Christian was not a boring man.

As the crowd thinned, those who were closest to Christian (many had traveled across oceans to be there) made their way to the conference room facing the west at sunset. My team had set a buffet specifically to serve those who may have missed food that had been passed about during the hours that focused on memorializing their boss, friend and father. Too much talking to sample the duck tacos or sweet corn and guajillo quesadillas that. On the buffet along with fresh corn bread and handmade tamales we presented a Rooster Ragu.

The idea of using roosters came from a visit with Tony at the Iaconno chicken store in East Hampton a few years ago. On occasion, when business is brisk and the 3 pound hens sell out he'll offer a rooster and his mom (handling the cash and selling eggs) will remind the buyer that roosters need a long time in the pot. This recipe is the result of one of those conversations.

1 7-8 lb. rooster (or large roasting chicken)
2 cups sliced button mushrooms
6 slices bacon
1 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced carrots
4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup crushed adobo chili (or other dried smoked mild chili)
16 oz crushed tomatoes (look for Muir Glen organic tomato)
3 tablespoons tomato paste
16 oz chicken stock
16 oz pozole (canned or rehydrated)
salt & pepper to taste

Start a day in advance by roasting the chicken for 2.5 hours @ 350.
Remove from oven and allow to cool. Reserve all dippings for stock. When the chicken is cool remove all of the meat from the bone and slice the breast pieces into 3 or 4 chunks. Set the meat aside and make stock with all refuse. Meanwhile slice and dice vegetables and crush chili. After the stock has been simmering for 45 minutes begin to assemble the ragu in an roasting pan 3 or 4 inches deep (big enough to hold all ingredients).Place a large sauté pan on medium flame and bring the bacon to crisp, remove and chop fine. Now, using the bacon fat soften the celery, onion, carrots and garlic.

When the vegetables have softened place half of the contents of the pan in the base of the roasting pan then add the chicken pieces, top with the rest of the vegetables and the bacon.
Next, using the same pan add the olive oil and the mushrooms and soften them, spread mushrooms on top of the chicken the sprinkle the chili over the top.
Finally, in the same pan combine the hot chicken stock with the tomato products (2) and the drained pozole, season liberally and pour over the top of the chicken in the roasting pan. Wrap the pan with plastic and refrigerate over night.

As dinner time comes into view (2 hours prior) bring your oven to 350 and remove the raguand the plastic wrap, now cover with foil and place in the oven. As the ragu cooks prepare whatever rice appeals, we like brown basmati in my house. Serve with corn bread and a seasonal salad.

Lobster and Roasted Beet Salad

2009-04-16T22:05:00.008-04:00

Hold the elevator, Jessica's on crutches. In Manhattan that doesn't happen too often, tonight was no exception. After receiving first class supervision from a friendly doorman at one of New York's finest hotels we followed a single woman in too much of a hurry to the elevator, she jumped on in front of us and pushed the button before we could step on.

Dinner was served on the 3rd floor an hour later. Jessica and I were in the company of friends, Karen and Peter Lawson Johnston, we all were interested in what the speaker Tom Brokaw had to say. Mr. Brokaw has spent the better part of his life reporting world events to the American public. Tonight he stood in the middle of a room full of Americans, talking about his view of our world today.

As an introduction he touched on significant phrases that he's heard over the past few weeks. The point that stood out for me came from his boss at NBC, the difference between historical economic adjustments and the present financial status...."think of it as a reset". Of course the challenging times we face require a word from our new vocabulary, RESET.. has no boundaries.

Brokaw went on to focus on who we are and how we must change our view. On more than one point he reminded the audience that we're "all in this together". Over the past several years the common view has been singular "it must become more about we than me". Of course he sited the "Greatest Generation" and how our grandparents made an effort to serve the people around them before they served themselves. He reminded this audience of sophisticated New Yorkers that it's become time to once again become a CITIZEN.

As we sat for dinner the first course was pre set at the table, a salad of mixed arugula and beet sprouts over thinly sliced roasted red beets and a few wedges of yellow beets. The salad was finished with a simple vinaigrette it could have been perfect, however over the top sat a sliced lobster tail.

Perhaps as our culture shifts from "me to we" the lobster tails might be better served on a dock, fresh from the kettle in all of it's goodness. In a more relaxed society our fellow citizens might wait for the slower paced citizens among us as our grandfathers would have done.
Let's slow down and hold the door.

Vegetable & Chicken Stir fry for 2

2009-03-24T22:25:00.004-04:00

Mansell went for a run this afternoon with me in Central Park. It was a fabulous day and we had a chance to make the most of our time together. Mansell’s enjoying her school and she’s focused on doing the best she possibly can in preparation for her upcoming high school applications (in September), and she’s open to the invitation to run with her Dad (I’m overjoyed).

Tonight we sat together at the dinner table and listened to our new President as he addressed the country. His message is what I think of as HEED focusing on H. Health insurance, E. Energy resources (renewable), E. Education & D. Deficit reduction. I’m on his side on HEED, I like his approach as he tackles the challenges of our times and quite frankly I like his swagger as he approached the podium.

On return from our outing we went to the grocery store with dinner in mind. At the Gourmet Garage we start in the vegetable section, the flavor base started with garlic, shallots, ginger and jalapeno. Then a package of chicken breast, broccolini, sliced peppers carrots and bean sprouts. As we moved through the starches we decided on a bag of brown basmati rice which we agreed should be first to hit the stove when we got home.

Vegetable & Chicken Stir fry for 2

2 knobs of ginger (peel & dice fine)
3 cloves garlic “ “
2 shallots “ “
1 jalipeno (seeded and diced fine0
1 carrot (shredded)
1 pound chicken breast (boneless, sliced into thin strips)
½ red pepper (sliced thin)
½ yellow pepper (sliced thin)
½ bunch broccolini ( tops)
1 cup bean sprouts
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons agave syrup
pinch chili flakes
pinch salt
1 cup water
½ cup brown basmati rice

Start by rinsing the rice with cold water , begin heating the ½ cup of water over high heat.
Add the rinsed rice and when the water begins to boil reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

When the timer rings for 30 minutes turn the flame to off and leave the rice covered. Now add 2 tablespoons of oil to a large saute pan or wok bring to heat over high flame and then add the ginger, garlic, carrots and jalipeno. Stirring until the mixture begins to soften, about 1 minute. Next add the remaining oil and then the chicken piece by piece stirring often. When the chicken is warmed through add the broccolini and peppers and stir some more. After another minute sprinkle with salt and chili flakes to taste then add the soy and agave syrup. Stir for another minute then add the bean sprouts and stir until the sprouts are fully incorporated. Now plate the rice and then the stir fry and serve.

Red Lentil Crusted Cod over Gujillo

2009-02-20T00:21:00.002-05:00

Looking for a job can pull a guy in a hundred directions, that I slept at all last night is a miracle. I’m pushing a resume around because the horizon is dark and cloudy. Since November, my prospect of making a living through the Old Stove Pub has diminished. Not only because the building can’t service a restaurant in the winter months, it’s become obvious that my partner Brian doesn’t have an interest in running the marathon required to build a thriving restaurant business.

Today I met Mrs. Dorethea Bon Jovi, she was introduced to me by Jessica’s friend CC. The Bon Jovi’s have a busy life, 3 homes, 4 kids, a staff that includes a house manager, a cleaning team “the girls” and a full time chef. The chef who has been with them for over a year is moving on, I’ve interviewed for his job. It went well, I’ve been asked to return to Soho next Wednesday to audition. Jason the chef told me a little about what the family likes to eat, some like white food some eat everything. Jon likes chili’s Dorethea does not.

So I’ll write a menu for the Bon Jovi family as follows:

Red Lentil Crusted Cod (I saw a bag of red lentils in the pantry)
over guajillo sauce with edamami and jasmin rice.

The lentils are pureed and used to add a crisp edge to the fish,
roll the flesh in the crushed lentils then place them in a hot pan with
grapeseed oil, 2 minutes. Transfer to a dry pan and place in a 400 oven
For 12-15 minutes.

In a separate sauce pan bring 2 cups of water to a boil season with seasalt, place 2 cups of edamame in the water and cook for 5-7 minutes until soft. To serve place 3 tablespoons of guajillo chili sauce in the center of the plate, then 2 tablespoons of rice on the side, top the soup with the fish (lentils up)then sprinkle the beans around the fish.

To start I’ll serve an arugala salad with grapefruit slices and raddiccio, the salad will be topped with a timbal of crabmeat.

The table will be set with a side plate and each setting will have turtle rolls on the side so they can eat as the wait for the salad.

Finally, for dessert a thin slice of flan with berries.

Winter Chicken & Vegetable Soup

2009-01-28T11:18:00.003-05:00

Lots of time between entries, the world has changed since July 4, 2008. Estelle and I parted ways in September. She left The Bridge first, for the season. I closed the kitchen on Nov. 3rd. Estelle will remain the exec. chef, I will seek new employment. The Bridge lasted until late November, a good season. Brian and I continue to campaign the property, hard to predict it’s reopening schedule. The world’s economic balance has shifted, like a slick log on a river.

Today I helped a friend prepare chicken soup for her table, I was asked to help teacher a basic first step. The process seems easy, try it and see.

1 butternut squash ( a small one)….peel, seed and dice the size of your thumb nail
4 carrots…peel and dice to the same size as above
6 stalks of celery….again cut to the same size (reserve tops and heart for stock)
1 large white onion….dice heart to pinky nail size…..(use trim in stock)
1 bunch parsley….rinse and remove stems…chop the leaves…stems in the stock
½ bunch cilantro…same process as parsley
1 red pepper….diced to the size of the celery
2 zucchini…..diced to the same size
1 large can of chicken stock
1 (4 lb) chicken roasted……shred all the meat….use the bones in the stock
¼ cup veg oil

Combine all trim for stock in a stock pot and add a splash of oil, start over high heat stirring then add water to cover after 5 minutes. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to simmer. Next combine all of the diced vegetables with the remaining oil and spread on a sheet pan (or 2). Place in a pre heated 375 oven, stir after 10 minutes.

When the vegetables have been roasted for 25 minutes remove from oven. Then strain the stock and combine the cleaned stock with the canned broth and bring to a boil. Now add the roasted veg. and the chicken meat, finally season with salt, pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, ground cumin and granulated garlic. Taste and adjust. Chill then cover and freeze.

This recipe is intend for service at a later date, freeze half of it in 3 separate containers. Fill them 2/3 of the way then dust each with ½ of the chopped herb. In the remaining soup add the rest of the herb and refrigerate. Serve the soup with rice or pasta if you’d like to add starch.

Old Stove Pub

2008-07-04T14:14:00.005-04:00

Bob Rubin installed an air conditioning unit in the kitchen at The Bridge, it works well. The job is challenging, not the cooking….dealing with Estelle the chef. She and I don’t share much in the way of common respect. I made a mistake early on and didn’t show a passion for her recipes, as a result we have become like 2 magnets dancing away from each other at every turn. Tonight the Bridge will serve the first Friday night dinner of the season. Her menu came out yesterday and I’ve not seen one dish plated yet, strange management technique.

My other news includes a long shuttered Greek style steakhouse on Montauk highway called the Old Stove Pub. I was hired as it’s consulting chef back in April by Brian Murray a real estate investor who plans to swing a new development designed for residential use on the 14 acre lot that runs next to the 2.5 acre restaurant piece. My job is to run the same menu that Steven Johnadies, the owner since 1969 had established. We opened the "Old Stove" on Tuesday last week. I start my day at The Bridge at 6:30 am then headed to Sag Harbor at 3:30 to check on the Little Kitchen then on to the the "Old Stove"to cook steaks & chops from 4 to 10pm. The hours of operation at the "Old Stove" are limited until my new hire Rueben Bravo joins me in the end of next week, we're serving Sunday to Thursday right now so that I can do dinners at "The Bridge" on Friday and Saturday. It’s a wild ride.

Garden Fresh Arugala Vinaigrette

2008-06-09T18:05:00.003-04:00

The temperature hit 95 yesterday, no air conditioning in the kitchen here at "The Bridge" made for an uncomfortable shift. My high point was a harvest visit to the clubs' kitchen garden. There’s a valley below the entrance to the clubhouse here, about 250 yards from the kitchen door. The garden sits in an old sandy road bed, contained by a 12 foot fence, supported by a high tech watering system in all about 3000 square feet. Bob Rubin thought it would be a good addition to the grounds, he did it right. The soil is 50/50 blend of compost and topsoil from Long Island compost, it measures about 18 inches in depth and has proven a perfect host for everything that I’ve planted to date.

On Saturday evening we produced our first cocktail party of the season. It was a birthday party for one of the members wives, 75 people, 6-8pm.The kitchen staff had prepared a variety of passed hors d'oeuvres and a raw bar. The crowd hardly touched the food. As a result we had a good deal of freezing to do, the club staff has also been eating well since then. Apparently the guests all had reservations and chose not to ruin their appetite.

Tuna was a big hit at the opening luncheon the following day and even more sushi grade tuna remained. On Sunday at lunch the family meal included a grilled fresh tuna wrap, it was finished with and arugula vinaigrette finished with ginger and garlic. I used the same puree whisked with red wine vinegar and EVO to toss with a salad of garden greens, radishes and spring onions. This puree would also serve well on a sliced hanger steak or on rare slice tuna steak off the grill.

2 bunches of cleaned fresh arugula
1 knob of fresh ginger, peeled & chopped
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
¼ cup EVO

6 tablespoons fresh lime juice salt & red pepper flakes

Blend all in a processor until smooth.

Cool Spinach and Onion dip

2008-05-12T15:03:00.003-04:00

It’s a quiet morning on the ridge line, when the wind blows hard (as it is today) the clubhouse at "The Bridge" moans and groans under the stress that its sail like design catches every blast of north wind, only the sound of whistles and howls gets through. The dining room with its 20 mile view over Shelter Island and beyond is still, not a breath of wind moves into the air tight chamber.

Mothers day weekend has come and gone, the kitchen team here had high hopes for a busy lunch shift, keenly interested in honing our skills with the menu that will grow larger and more complicated as the season progresses. We have a few veterans of last years service with us. The design of this room is more streamlined after the first season exposed assorted foibles and flow problems. It’s all straight out now and the chance to test our understanding of the plates and begin too choreograph the dance of a busy lunch service will require an active member involvement. It didn’t happen this weekend, 31 covers on Saturday and 21 on Sunday, Mothers day.

Since work required my attention on Sunday we made Saturday night the evening to celebrate our mothers and wives. A dinner party at home included the Briggs family (Geoffry & Roaxanne) Phobe was in town from her school Brooks, along with Bailey and Madeline her sisters. The Consuelos family (Mark and Kelly) attended with their children Michael, Lulu and Waukeen. Finally we enjoyed Christina and Johnny Muse as the only child free team in the group. The menu was a season opener on my new grill (an early anniversary gift from Jessica) of sirloin steak, roasted chicken stuffed with herbs, garlic and lemon. We filled a large roasting tray with 3 stuffed birds seasoned with Hymalain salt and fresh ground black pepper. On the rack below a ½ sheet pan covered with Idaho potatoes, sliced in half and rubbed cut side down with butter, Whittier was happy to handle this task. The chicken and potatoes went in a 375 oven at 6:30 in anticipation of 8pm service. Meanwhile Lyman trimmed green beans and peeled carrots, the green beans were blanched and shocked while the carrots were split and quartered and then tossed with EVO and lemons, then spread out evenly on a ½ sheet pan with 2 cups of water added and roasted on top of the potatoes, they went in the oven at 7:15. Mansell set the table and looked after the final touches like candles and flowers. Kelly brought homemade vanilla cup cakes with chocolate frosting for dessert, she made them in her new Electoroluxe oven which she loves.

My first contribution to the offering at The Bridge is a vegetable dip for the bar. It hasn't been approved by the Executive chef Estelle Arould who is away with her daughter in Florida until Memorial Day whoever I’m told that hungry golfers who enter the bar after the kitchen closes at 3 pm have enjoyed the fresh taste. Served with carrot sticks and celery it compliments the other choice of salted nuts on the bar.

Cool Spinach and Onion dip

5 oz plain yogurt
10 oz sour cream
2 small red onions chopped
2 cloves garlic chopped
1 liter fresh spinach, blanched and squeezed dry, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
salt pepper to taste

Begin by sweating the onions and garlic in 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat, as they begin to caramelize remove and cool. Combine all ingredient in a processor and run until smooth. Hold cold for at least 2 hours prior to serving.

Grapefruit Glazed Chicken Breast

2008-04-15T18:02:00.002-04:00

Tax day, the checks have been mailed (at 4:50pm in the general box at the East Hampton
Post office, the line was out the door). After my trip to Gay lane I headed to the golf course for a round in the perfect light of an East End spring evening. As I stepped off the 3rd tee looked back toward the clubhouse I watched an osprey hunting over the second cut on the 16th fairway. It’s wings backing up holding the big bird in place as it eyed the movement of a rodent below.

After putting on the 13th green, ocean side, I dropped my putter near the flag and took a moment to step up on the dune and admire the perfect blue of todays’ ocean. The tide was out and the waves rolled in gently, touching the dog tracks that ran from Wyborg to the
Jetty. This was my moment to relate thanks to my higher power, I’m lucky to be alive today.

For dinner I started with 1 cup of Lundberg Countrywild whole grain brown rice in 2 cups of water, then added 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 teaspoon of fresh picked thyme and ½ cup of mixed/dried mushrooms, cover tightly. Simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, turn off the flame and let sit until service. As the rice cooked I started an artichoke, having trimmed the stem and removed the tips of the leaves I swirled a drizzle of EVO over the top and dusted it with garlic salt. Placed in a small sauce pan the artichoke is steamed in an inch of water for about 30 minutes. The main course was Veal Picatta, very easy to make in the remaining 25 minutes. Start by placing the veal cutlets on a cutting board and pound them thin (but not like paper) then transfer them to a plate that’s been covered with all purpose flour and a table spoon of kosher salt. Lightly coat the cutlets with the flour and transfer them to a hot flat skillet with a pool of melted butter, when the cultlets begin to brown flip them add a bit more buter, season with salt and white pepper and then right when they are ready (about 5 minutes in all), squeeze ½ a lemon over the top and plate with the rice.

1 cup whole grain rice
½ stick of unsalted butter
½ cup dried mixed mushrooms
1 teaspoon thyme
1 artichoke (cut it in half w/ a serated knife before steaming if serving for 2)
2 tablespoons EVO, 1 teaspoon garlic salt
¾ pound veal cutlet (6 pieces for 2)
1 cup all purpose flour
5/1/08

The past three weeks have started in a new light for me, literally. Every morning since
April 7th I’ve rolled out of bed at 5:45 am. It’s been far easier than I imagined, when the
windows in our bedroom begin to hold light my internal alarm shakes a bell. How this happens I’m not sure but I’ve been diligent about laying down by 10:30 every night. I’m up early because by 6:45 am the Bridge requires my full attention.

Working on a Bridgehampton ridge line that is The Bridge golf club has opened my eyes to a new world in food service. Because it’s a premium private club, only available to members who have invested a kings ransom to use the facility, we must be ready to serve a full menu for breakfast and lunch. Interesting to note that there isn’t even a breakfast menu although we are to be prepared for most any request. To date our busiest day has been 27 guests, today we served no one.

The course is magnificent, the kitchen rocks, and every member of the staff seems happy
to be there. It will take some time to get used to this off season rhythm but I know when the members arrive it’ll be a wild ride.

My favorite part of the job to date has been preparing family meal, of course it’s all about
making the most of unsold food. The juice order stands for 2 gallons of OJ and 1 gallon of Grapefruit, demand at this time has been limited and the staff has more interest in OJ than grapefruit. With ¾ of a gallon of grapefruit juice left over, still viable I decided to reduce it to a glaze and add fresh ginger.

Grapefruit glazed chicken breast w/ ginger & garlic green beans & basmati rice (serves 4)

4 chicken breasts (boneless, skinless), sliced into 3 long thin pieces
1 large knob of ginger, diced fine
3 cloves garlic, diced fine
1 quart grapefruit juice (this recipe doesn’t serve a golf club staff)
4 tablespoons blended oil
3 cups green beans, stems removed and blanched
1.5 cups basmati rice
3 cups water

Start by simmering the grapefruit juice over a low flame until the liquid is reduced by half, then add all but 2 tablespoons of the chopped ginger.

Prepare the rice by rinsing it first in a colander then add it to a pot with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat then reduce to low and cover for 20 minutes. Don’t remove the lid, set aside until service.

In a large sauté pan add the oil and the ginger & garlic, bring the flame to high. Now add the beans and stir constantly. Grill the chicken breast and toss with ½ cup grapefruit glaze. Plate the rice and beans and top with the chicken then drizzle more sauce.

Shrimp & Vegetable Stir Fry

2008-03-06T12:58:00.002-05:00

The Little Kitchen is on the market now. A bitter sweet situation as the price, if it sells
will go along way toward supporting our family in the years to come. I’ve put all I can
into the business over the years including moving profits from the sale of our Amagansett
Café into the mortgage in Sag Harbor. Today we have a productive little business that
keeps 6 people fully employed and it provides me with a part time commitment. I’ve put it on the market as a test to see if the value really does exceed 2 million dollars. If that’s the case it’s time to sell and open a new chapter in my life. If not, we’ll stay the course.

On Wednesday night the kids had a dinner at home prepared by Nanny Mimi, she makes a great effort but sometimes the results fall short of expectations. That was the case on this particular Taco Night. Jess called on Thursday morning asking if I might come in to prepare “a healthy” dinner for the girls prior to our outing to a political fund raiser hosted by out friend and neighbor Cash Conway.

My bus arrived on 85th street from East Hampton @ 3:30 and as I walked up 3rd ave. I stopped in the first food store that I passed to pick up vegetables. Then, further up the street into the fish store for a pound of shrimp in the shell.

Shrimp & Vegetable stir fry w/ Lundgren’s wild rice mix

Clean and devane all shrimp (1 lb 16-20 Tiger shrimp)
1 bunch asparagus (Cut into 2 inch pieces on the bias)
1 yellow pepper
1 red pepper (both seeded and sliced into thin pieces)
1bunch scallions (sliced like the asparagus)
1 head of broccoli ( florets cut into bit size pieces, stems peeled and diced)
4 cloves garlic, slice all but 1
1 knob of ginger (the size off your thumb), peel and slice into thin pieces
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup citrus juice (grapefruit for this dinner)
2 tablespoons sweet rice wine vinegar
4 tablespoons orange marmalade
½ teaspoon chili flakes

Begin by placing the shrimp shells and 1whole garlic clove in a sauce pan with 1 tablespoon of oil over high heat, stirring until they begin to turn pink and get crisp. Now take all of the rest of the waste from the vegetables (ginger trim, scallion trim, pepper seeds ect. and stir them all together w/ the shrimp shells). After a minute reduce heat to medium and add the soy sauce, citrus, vinegar, marmalade and chili flakes. Stir and reduce by half, then strain the sauce and reserve for service, discard the solids.

Refer to the directions for your chosen rice and start preparation according to your service plan. Once the rice has been cooked, turn off the heat, leave covered and allow to rest. At this time place a large sautee pan or a wok over high heat and add remaining oil, add the ginger and garlic and stir, follow soon after with the broccoli and asparagus stir for a minute or 2 and then add the rest of the vegetables and shrimp. Stir constantly, add a bit more oil if needed. When the shrimp have cooked through the dish is ready. Plate the rice first, then just prior to service bring the shrimp & veg to high heat, stir in the sauce and plate along side the rice immediately. Try not to stem the dish in the sauce, simply bring it to temp. and serve.

Chicken

2008-02-25T10:05:00.004-05:00

On Sunday afternoon lunch was served in Bob and Stephane Rubins dining room. They started with an espresso cup containing an organic vegetable puree with mini croutons and pomegranate syrup. Course two featured angel hair pasta in a pool of Parmesan broth, topped with a greenhouse salad from Quail Hill tossed in a red wine vinaigrette and topped with 2 poached quail eggs. The fish course utilized red lentils 2 ways, poached in a shrimp/saffron stock and crushed and crusted on local skin on cod over asparagus. The trick with the red lentil crust seems to be a dip flesh side down in egg whites and then a press in the ground red lentil, transfer to a preheated skillet over high heat with a shot of grapeseed oil. The color was brilliant, everyone seemed pleased and the offered me the job. I accepted, we begin preparing the kitchen for year 2 of service on April 1.

Curry and I ran to the golf course today, then we walked to the 9th tee box and did some calisthenics over looking the ocean. She’s holding up well for a 13 year old lab. Our walks to the beach seem to give her a spark, Curry’s a happy dog. We saw the swans sailing about on the pond as we returned across the bridge. The sun was low in the sky, pink and orange bounced across the surface. The birds, surrounded by all the migrating ducks and geese that they share the pond with, stood out like sloops with shoots up amid a fleet of spectators in the America’s cup.

Tonight dinner came from Tony at Iaconna’s chicken farm. I purchased his last bird, already cut into 8 pieces. When I stepped in the door he asked me if the bird was going to be cooked tonight? It’s best to allow the freshly killed birds a day to rest prior to cooking. I was happy to purchase the pre cut chicken. When Curry and I stepped out of the car we walked over to the herb garden, dormant with the exception of rosemary which seems hardier than all other varieties in the soil. The chicken pieces were combined in a bowl with 3 cloves of garlic (peeled and crushed), a hand full of fresh rosemary, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 3 tablespoons of Dijon mustard. When we returned from our walk I placed the contents of the bowl on a roasting pan, seasoned it with salt and pepper and placed it in a 375 oven for 20 minutes. When the bell rang it was time to add 6 peeled potatoes and roll them in the fat on the bottom of the pan. After another 10 minutes I added 1 head of broccoli cut into florets. The dish was ready 5 minutes later.

1 4 lb chicken cut into 8 pieces
3 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, stems removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 small potatoes, peeled and rinsed
1 head of broccoli, cut into florets
salt & pepper

Phesant

2008-02-20T18:26:00.003-05:00

The pond in February is a haven for ducks, geese, a few blue herons and the same 2 swans that draw my attention every time I walk the dog. Today could have been a scene from Dark shadows, a fog hung heavy over the East end. For the first time in a month I came across a deer crossing the 13th fairway, it watched me and then caught wind of the dog. Bounding left to right, white tail in full display it was gone in an instant.

A new chef position has come into view, in the end of January I heard that the new
Bridgehampton Golf club “The Bridge” has been searching for a sous chef. The idea of following someone elses lead was interesting to me so I followed up. After attempting direct contact to no avail I called my friend Marvin Shanken, a member of The Bridge and he opened the door. A few weeks later in mid February I was invited to meet with the clubs General manager Roger, that interview lead to a meeting with the owner Bob Rubin and his wife Stephane which lead to a test luncheon prepared with the executive chef Estelle at Rubin’s home in Watermill.

This recipe was taught to me by Estelle, an attractive well traveled French woman who
opened the kitchen at The Bridge last year for the first season. Our introduction started the day before the lunch at The Little Kitchen, she had been flown up from Florida to meet me and supervise a meal, allowing her to get to know me and work with me in an informal setting. Her menu included a watercress soup which was a simple puree of water cress, shallots, and a splash of cream finished with a swirl of crème fraiche and a garnish of pepper cress from the Quail hill green house. The main course was roasted pheasant stuffed with foie gras and truffles served with a cranberry puree and a toss of sautéed root vegetables from Quail Hills’ root cellar.

The pheasant recipe called for black truffles marinated in cognac for 48 hours with pepper corns and a pinch of salt. The pheasants were rinsed first then she placed a few sprigs of thyme in each pheasant cavity followed by ¼ lobe of foie gras and a few table spoons of truffles. She then sewed the stuffed birds shut, rolled them for a few minutes in a hot oiled pan and the placed them in a deep roasting pan. Important to note that prior to putting the lid on the pan she prepared a simple batter of flour and water and rimmed the Roasting pan with it the placed the lid on top. The dish was roasted at 375 for 1 hour, as it cooked the batter sealed the lid to hold in all essence.

Serves 4

2 pheasants (2.5 to 3lb. ea)
1 small lobe of foie gras
1 black perigord truffle sliced thin (marinate in cognac for 48 hours w/8 peppercorns )
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 cup flour
½ cup water salt & pepper to taste
1 cup grapeseed oil

Butternut squash soup

2008-02-05T19:00:00.000-05:00

2 pieces butternut squash, split and seeded
2 cup turnips, peeled and diced
1 large celery root, peeled and quartered
½ cup Spanish onion ½ inch pieces
½ cup olive oil
2 cups chicken stock
½ cup white wine
1 cup heavy cream
salt & white pepper to taste

Pre heat oven to 375, rub all vegetables and place them on sheet pans.
Roast for 30-45 minutes until they begin to soften (onions will be ready first).
Bring the liquids to a simmer together in a soup pot.

When the butternut squash is soft remove the flesh from its shell and place in a food
processor, run on low setting slowly drizzling the hot liquid in as you puree, then add the rest of the vegetables cut into smaller pieces. When the whole recipe is in the processor (or blender) run on high for 30 seconds or until smooth then taste and season.

Serve with small croutons and a drizzle of reduced pomegranate juice or pomegranate molasses.

Sea Scallop Schnitzel

2008-02-04T13:56:00.004-05:00

As winters go this has been mild, no heavy freeze, very little snow, plenty of weekday customers at The Little Kitchen. A nice change from past winters filled with snow plowing, frozen pipes and empty dining rooms.

The same pair of swans move about on Hook pond enjoying the mild winter. My neighbor Lisa Ryan told me that another Dunemere lane resident Doug Mercer saved the frozen swan and delivered it to the wild life rescue center. Apparently the approach that worked involved walking out on the ice and placing a cloth bag over the bird's head. This calms them enough to move to a safer place. As for the remaining pair they spend most of their time working in the same location of last springs nest.

In the last week of January on the 26th, a Saturday night we hosted a German Inspired Dinner featuring wines from the Wolffer estate. I was pleased to watch as the reservation book filled up in the hours that followed the news letters release to the people on Wolffers’ List. In the end 65 people attended the 2 seatings. We started with a butternut squash soup finished with croutons and pomegranate molasses served in an espresso cup. The first course was a sea scallop schnitzel, a suggestion form Charlie Palmer, plated with micro greens and a whole grain mustard hollandaise. Course 2 utilized whole wheat pappardelle noodles tossed in a sauce made with shitake mushrooms, shallots, chicken stock, herbs, sour cream and heavy cream. It was finished with a garnish of chanterell mushrooms that were tossed in garlic oil and roasted then rolled in chopped fine herb. The meat course featured pork shoulder braised in Wolffer Big Apple Wine, served over greens from the Quail hill green house with sweet potato batons and the apple wine reduction. Dessert made use of Fuji apples from the Milk Pail in Watermill, tossed with cinnamon, raisins and walnuts and rolled in filo pastry brushed with butter. Roasted and cut into 2 inch cylinders, the “Apple Strudel” was plated with vanilla bean whipped cream.

Sea Scallop Schnitzel

2 lb 10-20 sea scallops
3 cups squid bodies, sliced into thin rings
½ cup shallots
2 cups Wolffer ver juice
¾ cup egg whites
2 cups panko bread crumbs
½ cup chopped parsley & oregano
½ tablespoon sea salt
1 cup grapeseed oil

Combine the squid rings, shallots and ver juice (or white wine) in a sauce pan over low heat, bring to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. Remove from heat and strain, allow the squid to cool then puree in a food processor or blender with egg whites. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the herb and salt.

Slice the scallops into 3 thin pieces, maintining the round shape. If they still have the cartaledge

remove tose tough pieces first.

Set a baking sheet on the counter and then line the bottom of a foil cupcake cup with 3 pieces of scallop then add a spoonful of squid puree and top with 3 more scallop slices. Then flip the cup over onto the sheet pan and repeat until you are finished with the squid mixture. It should yield about 12 cakes.

Preheat the oven to 375 about 20 minutes before service and place ½ of the oil in a flat bottom skillet over medium flame. Now dust the cakes with panko and pat the breadcrumbs down then flip the cakes over and repeat. Place the cakes in the skillet 3 at a time cooking for about 2 minutes until brown on each side then transfer to a baking sheet in the oven (refresh the oil ½ way through) bake the cakes for 10 minutes than serve immediately with a micro green and blanched celery salad in citrus vinaigrette.

Manilla Clam and Parsley Spaghetti

2008-01-09T18:31:00.002-05:00

The swans have moved on, most of them anyhow. On my run to the beach this afternoon I only saw 2 mixed in with the hundreds of Canada geese that reside on Hook pond this time of the year. Last week we had a cold spell with the temperature dipping into the teens for several days. As the pond began to freeze solid I came across an older swan in a small hole in the ice just to the south of the 4th tee box. The bird was moving in a sluggish manner and had little room to move. I did my best to get it to fly by brushing a long branch within 2 feet of the hole in the ice, to no avail. The next day as it was even colder I set out to check and found the bird totally frozen in but still alive, there was nothing to do but wait. That night the weather broke and in the morning of the third day the temperature had reached 40 degrees. In the afternoon I was pleased to see that the hole was empty and it appeared that there had been no struggle as I checked the remaining Ice. Today the ice is gone and the thermometer outside our kitchen door reads 52 degrees.

Mid winter heat waves are always welcome. One of the benefits that I revel in is the return of my parsley in the planter outside our kitchen door in East Hampton. It’s Wednesday night and I’m on my own having just returned from New York. The kids are out to dinner at the Italian restaurant Vicco on Madison ave. with Jess so I’ve decided to have some pasta too.

Manilla clam and parsley spaghetti with garlic and chili flakes

¼ box spaghetti
2 dozen Manilla clams, scrub clean with cold water and a clean scrub pad
3 cloves of garlic chopped
3 tablespoons of fresh chopped flat leaf parsley
½ teaspoon red chili flakes
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons sea salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small wedge Parmesan reggiano

Fill a 2 quart sauce pan ½ way with water and bring it to a boil, then salt it with sea salt.
Add the pasta and maintain the boil.

In a sauté pan combine the olive oil with the garlic and chili flakes over medium heat. As the garlic begins to sizzle add the clams then the wine, bring to a boil. When the clams open add the parsley and finally the drained pasta. Serve on a large plate and finish with grated parmesan cheese.

Penne and Ham

2007-12-26T20:50:00.001-05:00

Upon arrival in Hobe sound on Christmas Day we enjoyed a dinner of Baked Ham and
asparagus with Frank Mansell and his girlfriend Sandy Taylor. Frank’s faithful chef Kreta has loosened her grip on the kitchen just enough to allow me the honor of preparing the occasional meal for my children. On the second day after Christmas I was allowed access to make pasta for Whittier as she wasn’t invited to dinner at The Yacht club due to the rules, you must be 10 to dine there for regular dinner service, Whittie's just 9.

The dish we chose was a holiday take on pasta Carbonnara, this recipe calls for baked ham instead of prosciutto or bacon. Based on what was in the pantry we also made it with penne, generally the choice would be fettuccine or some other noodle.

½ box penne pasta
2 whole eggs, beat in a bowl until they begin to foam
1 cup half & half
¼ cup grated parmesan
½ cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ small white onion diced fine
1 garlic clove diced fine
½ cup baked ham diced fine
1 bunch pencil thin asparagus

Start by bringing 1 quart of water to a boil and salt it to taste, when it’s at a rolling boil, add the penne and cook for 5 minutes.

As the pasta cooks start a sautee pan on medium heat and add the onions and garlic along with olive oil. As they begin to simmer place the asparagus in the pan and turn until its coated then add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil and continue cooking for 1 minute then remove to plates.

Now add the half & half to the sautee pan, followed by the eggs, stir until incorporated and then turn flame to low. Now stir until it begins to thicken, at this point the pasta is ready to drain and add to the egg mixture, follow with ham and then cheese stirring all along. When the sauce begins to tighten up remove and plate.

Kitchens in Charlie Palmer’s newest restaurant

2007-12-21T13:37:00.003-05:00

Kitchens in Charlie Palmer’s newest restaurant at Dallas’s newest hotel The Joule are large and shiny, designed to serve tables in Charlie’s dining room and the hotels luxurious rooms and banquet facilities. They'll even provide meals to all employees in the hotel and the restaurant, a big job that requires precision almost 24 hours a day.

My contribution was to provide an extra set of hands, in return I was able to see how a new venture of Charlie’s takes flight, the hotels rooms were not yet open, the dining room was only in its third day of service when I arrived and after a weekend of friends and family they opened for business quietly with no promotion and very little word of mouth. An intentional move that was designed to allow the team time to work out any opening kinks before the Dallas fine dining community starts to put the service under a microscope.

The executive chef, Scott Romano is a confident young man who’s worked for Charlie since starting his career 11 years ago. I first met him at the James Beard house in 1998, we were on Charlie’s team when he served a $30,000. Diner party along with Daniel Bolude and Charlie Trotter. More recently I interviewed Scott for my 2004 article Kitchen doors New York. At that time he was the chef at Charlie’s casual price fix concept Kitchen 82 on Manhattan’s upper west side. Since that time he’s run the kitchen at Charlie’s catering facility Astra in the D & B building in Los Angeles. With enough energy to rise at 9am and work until midnight 7 shifts a week he’s the perfect man for the job, stern when he needs to be and a leader with enthusiasm for excellent food Scott made my time in Charlie’s kitchen memorable.

The dishes that caught my attention includes a sashimi salad with celery leaf, frizza and shallots topped with thin slices of raw white tuna and slivers of capicola in a rice wine vinaigrette. I spent my first day preparing the angolatti pasta filled with herbed Ricotta cheese and mascarpone, once on the plate it’s finished with grated Parmesan and lightly fried shitake mushrooms.

Apple Sauce

2007-12-09T23:21:00.004-05:00

Christmas is in the air on Dunemere lane, this Saturday after breakfast the Ambrose family set out to find a tree and by days end the chosen one was standing in the eastern most corner of our family room. The tree stands just over 7 feet tall, a balsam fir, it smells like Christmas and after a few hours of family time (and a few slices of yesterdays pizza) it looks like Christmas.

In the kitchen we had a project, teachers gifts. This year’s recipe calls for applesauce delivered in glass jars with personalized cards. The apples came from the Milk Pail in Watermill. I wanted a red and green effect and with a suggestion from Anne Halsey the Milk Pail’s owner I found a food mill at The Little Kitchen and we used it to mill cooked Fuji apples their skins left on. Anne explained that if you wish to have red apple sauce leave the skins of sweet red apples on as you cook, puree them and you’ll have red applesauce. In preparation for an upcoming dinner party at The Little Kitchen I decided to use Wolffer apple wine as the liquid/acid addition. To add the hint of green we sliced a dozen Granny Smith apples and cooked them the same way however as they came off the stove top (15 minutes) we layered the red puree with the green chunks apple sauce and everyone agreed it looked like Christmas and it tasted fresh and sweet.

12 ½ liter jars w/ rubber seals and lockable glass lids
12 Fuji apples
12 Granny Smith apples
1 bottle (750ml) Wolffer big apple wine
3 cups white sugar’
2 tablespoons cinnamon

This recipe requires timing not only for the 2 elements of the apple sauce but the jars as well. They must be cleaned with hot water and soap and rinsed well, then they should be boiled in a large/ deep pan and filled with hot sauce immediately. Today we did 3 at a time. Once filled the rims are wiped clean and lids locked down tight then they go back into the boiling water bath for five minutes or until the water returns to a full boil. As they come out of the water the goal is to cool them as fast as possible. It was 31 degrees outside today so we put the jars on the patio dining table for 20 minutes and then into the frezzer for and hour and a half, then just as they began to freeze they went into the fridge.

For dinner we purchased 2 4 lb chickens at Iocona, stuffed them with sliced tangerines, dusted them with salt and George Washington’s seasoning and roasted them for ½ hour.
Then the chickens came out of the 400 stove, added 4 peeled and sliced carrots with 6 cloves garlic and 10 peeled shallots, covered all with aluminum foil and returned to the oven for 40 minutes. Served with frozen sweet peas in white wine and butter served over white rice.

London Broil Steak

2007-12-04T17:43:00.002-05:00

Family dinner on 96th street last night was splendid. On Jessica’s request I prepared a London Broil steak with thin cut French Fries and toasted garlic broccoli, for Lyman Pinenut crusted Tilapia with tangerine sauce. In the middle of the table a roasted spaghetti Squash with sautéed red pepper and onions.

The steak sauce was intended to replicate a sauce that we tried at Haru while out celebrating Whittier’s birthday last weekend. It was a wine and soy reduction that finished the steak and then for garnish they topped the steak with thinly cut crisp French fries. Last night the sauce was made with 1 cup of beef stock, 1 cup of ver jus, ½ cup soy sauce, 1 tablespoon ginger powder, ½ tablespoon garlic powder. Combine all in a sauce pan and reduce. Do this in advance of dinner service and warm to finish the plate.

The steak was seasoned with salt for 20 minutes before cooking in a grill pan, 3 minutes per side at high heat then removed and set aside to rest for 10 minutes, the steaks were mid rare. For the broccoli all the tops were cut into large bite size pieces and the stems were peeled and cut to size 1 large head, garlic sliced thin 3 cloves. In a hot skillet add 4 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic then stir until it begins to brown, add the broccoli and stir continuously until it begins to soften remove to the plate, For the fries use 1 large baking potato skinned and sliced thin by hand or with a mandoline. Bring a pan of vegetable oil 3 inches deep to 375 on a high flame and then add 1/3 of the potato at a time stir until they begin to brown, transfer to a paper towel and repeat. To plate slice the steak, spoon the sauce over the steak and then top with French fries.

For the fish (you can use any white fish) coat the fish with egg white followed by a coating of crushed pine nuts, set the fillet into a hot non stick pan over medium heat with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Cook each side for about 2 minutes or until golden brown, remove to a plate w/ broccoli and then wipe the pan clean return it to the heat and add the sauce. For the sauce, in advance clean 2 tangerines, removing the skin and seeds then in a bowl combine the tangerines with 3 tablespoons olive oil and 3 tablespoons verjus.
Add this to the warm pan and stir over medium heat until it reduces by half, pour over the fish and serve.

Bass

2007-11-28T01:30:00.003-05:00

This was a family weekend to remember, 4 evenings in a row with all 5 of us in attendance each night with friends at a different table. The highlight of the weekend was last night (sat.) at the Streeps. Thanksgiving dinner #2 an annual event. Prior to Dinner we went to the beach, walking the dogs and casting a popper at the Jetty off Wieborg beach. We came up on a group of locals in pick up trucks towing a dory and to our great surprise we had a chance to watch them set the haul sien.

Mansell took a series of photos to document the event, a celebration of the sea on the beaches of East Hampton that may soon be completely outlawed. As the team pulled in the net the large bass were tossed into the back of the truck while the shorts were returned to the sea, some too weak to make there way back into the shallow waves of low tide, a dramatic sight on this the harvest moon.

As we were leaving the girls asked one of the fisherman if they would mind if we picked up one of the short fish that had washed back up on the beach, he shrugged his shoulders and walked off. That was permission to us so we picked the exhausted fish up off the beach and carried it home in my tackle bag.

Lyman loves fish, this recipe was designed to use every ounce of our harvest. As the girls watched I cleaned the fish first removing it’s head and then opening the belly with thumb sized minnows pouring out on to the cutting board. Next step, slice the filets from the spine to the tail and then remove the skin by laying the filets skin side down on a cutting board and sliding the knife from tail end forward separating the skin from the flesh completely without having to scale the fish first. Next step is to go back to the remaining skeleton and trimming all the left over flesh. This flesh is then diced fine and mixed with diced shallot and red pepper, parsley, salt & pepper. Sautee the mixture with butter slowly over low heat until the mixture is almost cooked through.

On the cutting board slice the boneless filets in half from tail forward creating cardboard thin slices of fish (use your sharpest knife). Then roll the mixture into the filets and spear them with a toothpick size piece of dried linguine. For service roast 1 medium sized Spaghetti squash (@375 for 45 minutes w/ olive oil & water) and then remove the flesh, stir in 4 tablespoons butter, 1 cup diced shallots, red pepper and parsley mixed with a seasoning of salt and pepper. Place this mixture in a casserole and top it with the striped bass rolls, bake @375 for 25-20 minutes.

Thanksgiving

2007-11-21T15:17:00.001-05:00

A Thanksgiving dinner promotion at the Little Kitchen kept me busy all day, working with Raul in a quiet kitchen, the dining room empty (it’s Tuesday and were closed) made for an exceptional day. He works efficiently and keeps his station clean. The stuffing recipe called for 6 loaves of bread, 2 seven grain, 2 Tuscan loaves & 2 rye. The bread was cut into cubes and then dusted with chopped parsley, oregano and allspice then Raul tossed it with olive oil and toasted the herbed bread cubes. In the morning we will add sautéed celery and shallots and then stuff 4 turkeys, a few sheet pans of the remaining croutons will be soaked with turkey stock and milk then toasted then stirred and toasted some more.

We also made a big batch of creamed onions, Raul cleaned and I blanched. The pearl onions come in mesh bags that hold about a quart of onions, this recipe called for 8 bags.
The onions went from a boiling pot of water into a bowl full of ice water as soon as they began to soften (about 3 minutes) then we made a batch of cream sauce with ½ pound of butter, 1 cup of flour, ¼ cup white wine, ¼ cup calvados, ½ cup ½ & ½ and 1 cup of milk salt & pepper (if it’s seems a bit tight add some of the water from the blanching pot). The butter and flour should be stirred until smooth over low heat first then add the rest of the ingredients one at a time stirring often. The onions should be drained and then added to a large cassarole then stir in the cream sauce, and a cup of Swiss cheese. Place in the oven @ 400 for 15 minutes. If you like a cheese crust finish the dish with more Swiss cheese on the top and flash it under the broiler for another 2 or 3 minutes until it browns.

The promotion has offered a pick up on Wednesday afternoon between noon and 4pm.
The customer will receive turkey, mashed potatoes, butternut squash puree, Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce, creamed onions, stuffing, gravy and of course pumpkin pie. Our focus today was on freeing the ovens up for the turkeys in the morning. The butternut squash was split, seeded and roasted with a coating of oil and a splash of water, Then an hour later after it cooled we removed the skins and the pureed with a hand held stick blender, added butter, salt and a pinch of nutmeg. Then we made the pumpkin pies.

This recipe calls for Long Island cheese pumpkins but a can of Libby pie mix will work too. I find the best way to make these pies is 2 at a time because Pilllsbury all ready pie crusts are as good as any I can make, they come 2 to a pack. First cut the pumpkin into ¼ and remove the seeds then toss with oil and roast on a large sheet pan at 375 for an hour or until they become soft. After they cook remove the skins and then puree in a processor, transfer the puree to a colander and allow it to shed its excess water for an hour. In a large bowl combine 1 can of evaporated milk with 3 large fresh eggs, 1 cup of brown sugar, 2 tablespoons of cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Whip the mixture with a stiff whisk and then whisk in 2.5 cups of pumpkin puree. In 2 , 8 inch glass pyrex pie pans arrange the softened pie crust by pressing the base in first then rolling the balance around the top edge, roll and pinch. Pre cook the crust in a 400 oven for 3 to 5 minutes until they begin to brown, remove from the oven and then fill each crust to just below the edge with the pumpkin pie filling. Place both pies on a baking sheet and bake @ 400 for 45 minutes then check with a toothpick. If the pie is not ready (the toothpick should come out of the center dry) turn the pies 180 degrees so the crusts bake evenly, check again after 10 minutes.

Blackfish and tomato stew

2007-11-20T18:25:00.001-05:00

The Brussels sprouts at Quail hill are ready for harvest, many larger ones at the base of the plants were picked weeks ago but I’m finding the small top sprouts to be tasty and quick to prepare in the pan. Sautéed with a few chopped shallots and a tablespoon of butter they only take a few minutes. This weekend we’re serving them with a blackfish and tomato stew with Israeli cous cous. I like the little pasta balls which require the same amount of cooking time as the 7oz fish filets (bluefish or weakfish would work with this recipe too).

It’s Thanksgiving organization time so we made our annual family trek to the walking dunes to pick cranberries. With the help of Jessica, Mansell and Whittier the bag filled quickly, we found the most abundant cranberry harvest ever. Saturday was warm and the sky was clear and we all had a lovely time, walking back down the beach was more leisurely than normal, a very nice day.

After the harvest I managed a walk to visit the swans and found all still on the pond, hugging the bank to avoid a west wind. The signets have started to molt and what were grey feathers are followed by white. At first I thought a new variety of swan had migrated in, on closer inspection I realized they were my young friends in new clothing.

Blackfish and tomato stew

4, 7oz fish filets, skins and bones removed
1 cup mirpoix
4 plum tomatoes, sliced in half dusted with fine herb/ salt & pepper
1.5 cups Israeli cous cous
2 cups chicken stock finished with ½ teaspoon of saffron
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Pre heat the oven to 450

Start a large sauté pan over high heat then add the mirpoix & butter and stir, season with salt and pepper. When the vegetables begin to soften push them aside and place the filets in the pan, next add the cous cous and stir together with the vegetables. After about 1 minute lift the filets out and then add the stock/saffron (If you want more seafood flavor use fish stock, ask your fishmonger for the blackfish bones) stir now lay the filets on top cooked side up and add the herbed tomatoes. Place the skillet in the oven and roast for 10 minutes. While that’s cooking begin to prepare the Brussels sprouts.

To plate remove the filets from the pan first then spoon the cous cous and tomatoes onto each plate then top the cous cous with the fish. Finish each plate with Brussels sprouts.

Poached Egg and Chinese Cabbage Salad

2007-11-12T00:01:00.004-05:00

Last weekend on Sunday night we hosted the 13th annual Quail Hill harvest dinner at Estia’s Little Kitchen. On staff, Lyman (14) & Mansell (11) Ambrose with Nicholas (16) & Christopher (13) Cinque, it was a rewarding evening for me and it seemed our guests enjoyed it too. In the prayer I gave thanks for the color of Quail hill eggs and the beautiful beets that we add to salads, I also mentioned how much all the little hands help. On Saturday we harvested raspberries with the Briggs girls, in 15 minutes pie pans were full, not the case when I harvest alone and certainly a lot more fun to watch the children harvest, 1 for me 3 for you.

The second course won raves, a sliced salad of Chinese cabbage, purple cabbage, butter leaf lettuce, blanched sweet potato, diced roasted beets and poached eggs (hand picked) from the Quail hill chicken coop plated with Long Island Cheese Pumpkin emulsion and roasted pumpkin seeds. The salad’s finished with warm braised leeks and apple cider vinaigrette made with a reduction of calvados and cider whisked with olive oil and apple cider vinegar.

On the plate this dish is intended to look like a birds nest. It features a warm barn yard egg and crunchy pumpkin seeds, color from the cabbage and orange pumpkin emulsion, then a hint of acid from the vinaigrette.

I love the harvest dinner because it gives me a willing audience that seems genuinely interested to hear about the details in each dish. When this plate was recited the room was silent and a warm hum followed the recipe, music to my ears.

The Swans on hook pond have grown in numbers, yesterday I counted over 40 including 5 signets. For the first time in weeks I saw a pair flying from one end of the pond to the other. Perhaps the migration south will begin soon.

Poached egg and Chinese cabbage salad with pumpkin emulsion (Salad serves 6)

1 tiny head of purple cabbage (sliced thin)
1 small head of Chinese cabbage (sliced thin)
1 head butter leaf lettuce (sliced thin)
2 large leeks, sliced into ribbons, cleaned and sautéed in butter and apple cider
1 sweet potato, peeled, blanched and diced
1 large Chioggia beet, roasted and diced (save leaves slice thin)
1 small Long Island Cheese Pumpkin, cleaned, sliced and roasted @ 375 for 30 minutes
Pumpkin seeds tossed in olive oil and salted, roast @ 375 for 30 minutes
4 tablespoons, local honey
1 cup Extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup calvados (reduce with most of the cider by ½)
½ cup cider vinegar
6 eggs poached in boiling water w/ a teaspoon of vinegar

To make the emulsion place 1 cup roasted pumpkin in a blender w 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, 2 table spoons lemon juice, 4 tablespoons honey, pinch of salt then blend until smooth.

To compose the salad toss greens and cabbage including the beet greens in a bowl with sweet potatoes and beets. Season with a pinch of salt and a crack of pepper. In a separate bowl whisk most of the oil and the reduced calvados cider. Add the vinaigrette to the greens and then place the salad in a small bowl and create a form, flip over onto the plate. Next top the form with a few strands of braised leeks, repeat until you have a plate for each guest. Now drizzle the pumpkin emulsion on each plate, top the salad with a poached egg serve immediately so the egg maintains it’s heat.

Olive Oil Braised Fennel

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- 2 large fennel heads, remove fennel tops and hold for roasting the pork.
- Slice the trimmed fennel from root to steam
- Place the fennel in 2 cups of olive oil over medium heat and turn after 5 minutes.
- Now transfer to the oven and roast for another 10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and transfer to a serving plate, squeeze a lemon over the top, 2 if they’re small then top with diced tomato, season with sea salt.